Date: 31st May 2009
Distance: 9.8 miles
Time: 6.5 hours
Ascent: 3,498ft
Munros: Beinn Sgritheall
Team: Elaine, Dave, Tony, Graeme and I
Weather: Hot, sunny, hazy

Famous last words: “It’s only three hours up and down.” This is no doubt true if you approach from Arnisdale, have a masochistic love for scree and it isn’t a scorching 27 degrees in the glens. Anyway, an utterance of the hillwalker’s prayer over a dram of Ardbeg the night before had clearly done the trick and we had another glorious day.

This was the final day of the Kintail expedition (traditionally a short day with a long drive back to Aberdeen ahead). We left the bunkhouse at Morvich quite late and had a great drive across the Mam Ratagan, down to the sleepy village of Glenelg facing Skye, and then into Gleann Beag passing the mysterious Brochs. On reaching the farm at Balvraid both of us tried to take cars a bit further but eventually thought better of it and parked on the verge above the Abhainn a Ghlinne Bhig, just outside the farm gates. Kitted up we were on our way in the bright morning sunshine just before 9:30.

The first part of the walk takes you deeper into the Gleann on a good vehicle track (much improved beyond the farm). The peacefulness of the situation and the sunshine make this remote glen and most beautiful spot. The rugged slopes of the hills here lead the eye towards the more rugged and shapely peaks in the distance.

After a pleasant stroll the track was left and we dropped through wooded slopes to an elegant bridge crossing the river which here flowed through steep-sided rocky chasm.

On the far side we had a slog up a damp slope to pick up the vague path which is shown on the OS Map running just inside the trees and avoiding the worst of the bog. We lost it again briefly as we cut a corner to reach the Allt Srath a Chomarbut were soon back on a good quality surface which finally brought us our first proper views of Beinn Sgritheall.

The heat was steadily beating as we crossed the stream (having spied a great looking spot for a later dip!) and headed through the tangle of woodland to the base of the real climb.

Not totally sure of the route we decided to head up into the central coire and see what happened. We scrambled our way up the stream in Coire Dubh until we could see a path winding its way up the headwall. To the right the east ridge looked impressive and there were other crags on the left.

As we got further into the coire we decided to climb up to the left to make it more of a round of the mountain than a straight up and down. It was a steep climb and then a nice scramble up onto this ridge which culminates at the spot height 641 on the map.

This gave fantastic views up to the higher reaches of Beinn Sgritheall as well as back down the glen we had walked up.

As we waited for our party to regroup we enjoyed a laze in the wonderful sunshine. Below us a small herd of deer lolled about in the heat. The hills of the fine Kingdom of Knoydart were shimmering in the haze.

From here we dropped down to the Lochan in Coire Min and then crossed to pick up the trail which led up to the final climb to the summit ridge.

This was a massively, stupid steep section of grass which, in the heat, was a total killer. Luckily though someone had arranged for an amazing view at the top and as I stood catching my breath, wiping sweat off my brow, I gazed out over the wonderful, shimmering waters of Loch Hourn to the peaks beyond. It was utterly glorious, as was the clear track which came down from the south top and headed up to the summit to the north.

The views got better as I gained the last few meters up to the summit, eventually reaching the cairn and dropping down on the very edge of the cliffs overlooking Arnisdale and the Loch.

With the weather we had this has to be one of the most amazing views in the north-west highlands. The Black Cuillin of Skye with Blaven in the foreground were just across the water, and to the south the distinct shape of Ben Nevis, snow still in the northern cliffs, was clearly seen despite the haze. More impressive though were the hills of Knoydart, very close at hand beyond the Loch.

After a very relaxed lunch on the top we decided to head down the east ridge as it looked a lot of fun from the climb up. It turned out to be a great way off the hill, offering superb views and a good track dropping down stony sections and with views into yawning gullies back down to Coire Min.

Soon enough we were dropping down the steep grassy slopes back down to the trees and the river. We wound our way back, tracing our outward steps until we found a nice looking spot in the river for a refreshing dip. The water, cool and clear, was the most refreshing thing and it felt great to wash away all the sweat and dust.

The walk back in the sunshine dried the shorts pretty quick and before too long we had crossed the bridge and were back on the tracks to the car at the top of Glenn Beag.

Then it was just a small matter of driving back to Aberdeen, stopping at the chipper in Drumnadrochit for a fish supper and doing battle with the usual useless driving.

And to finish, a video panorama from the top of Beinn Sgritheall.

Distance: 10.4 miles
Time: 8.5 hours (including lunch, snoozes, scrambling etc)
Ascent: 5200ft
Munros: The Saddle, Sgurr na Sgine
Corbett: Ben a Crois Chaolais

The Saddle via Forcan Ridge and more at EveryTrail

Map created by EveryTrail: Geotagging Community

The west coast wonder weather continued on Saturday despite a somewhat cloudy start. Aiming to have the majority of the tough climbing and scrambling done before the sun became too ridiculous we were on the road from Morvich before 7:30 and were the second car to arrive in the layby close to the plantation by the A87 at NG973138.

We kitted up and headed back west down the road until we came to the usual start point for the path up to the start of the Forcan Ridge at NG968143. This is an excellent stalkers path which rapidly gains height up the slopes of Meallan Odhar.

Behind us to the east the rising sun was finding its way through chinks in the cloud and casting a glorious light on the slopes of the Five Sisters. The spectacular scenery got better as we climbed and the clouds kept the temperatures to a reasonable level.

After climbing past the summit of Meallan Odhar we rounded a corner and got a first view of the very impressive Forcan Ridge. From here it looked a lot of fun in a jagged sort of way.

We crossed the lumpy ground to the foot of it and then, in the face of a stiff wind, donned an extra layer before starting the scramble.

I was leading and kept to the crest of the ridge as much as possible. The first section runs up some steep grooves with excellent hand and footholds on good rock. The views behind were getting very spectacular indeed.

After this some path sections take you up to below Sgurr Nan Forcan. There was then some excellent scrambling, with one fun move around an airy corner and some other steps along narrow slabs of rock, tipped on their edges. Nothing was beyond my comfort zone though and it felt good to be moving. We were first on the ridge and so had plenty of time to explore.

We reached Sgurr Nan Forcan and enjoyed breathtaking views in all directions.

From here, there was a steep drop down to the final rise up towards the Saddle itself. My teammates chose to avoid this and scrambled down a steep gully to the left, reaching an avoidance path below. I took a look at the downclimb and went for it. The first couple of moves were somewhat leaps of faith, my foot reaching down into the void but soon finding a good purchase. Once I started moving it flowed nicely together and after a couple of long reaches I was down on the path feeling really proud of myself.

I again took the lead for the final section, narrow but fun, which took us up to the Saddle itself.

The views from the trig point on the summit were spectacular. We took a few minutes soaking them in before turning slightly down slope on the sheltered northern side to eat a mid-morning snack. Our progress had been steady and we’d reached the summit in 3 hours from our starting point up the road.

We were now headed for Sgurr na Sgine, the next Munro around heading towards the South Cluanie Ridge. From this side it was a lumpy looking hill with no great prominenence. After taking a look into the Saddle’s huge central coire we dropped steeply down a rubbly path, paralleling a drystone dyke that dropped from the summit slopes of the mountain. This is the avoiding route if you don’t fancy the Forcan Ridge.

It brought us down below the ridge to a wide bealach where we paused again to admire the views onto the Knoydart hills.

After a wee snooze we continued on past the small lochan and then climbed steep grassy slopes onto the ridge between Faochag and Sgurr na Sgine.

We followed a good track round and then up the final steep slope to the summit plateau. It is a rocky, undulating area with the summit cairn located at the very eastern end perched above the mountain’s prominent east facing cliffs.

Here we ate lunch gazing out on a landscape now basking in the heat of a high summer sun. From Skye to Torridon, Knoydart and down to Ben Nevis it was a dream view.

After scoping out our options we dropped southeast off the summit, staying above the cliffs and looking down a couple of steep gullies until we came down to a point we we could drop down steep, grassy slopes to another drystone wall. This brought us safely down below the cliffs to another col which we crossed before climbing up the Corbett Ben a Crois Chaolais.

With the sun beating down this was a vicious climb across boulder strewn gullies and then up steep, heathery slopes. Luckily it was soon over and we gratefully sat down next to the cairn at the summit drinking in the stunning view across to the South Cluanie Ridge.

Here we had another snooze in the sun before being woken up by a chap coming up from the Cluanie Ridge side carrying nothing much besides a water bottle. He had driven up from Paisley, set off at 7:30-ish from the Cluanie Inn and got to this point in roughly the same time it had taken us to reach the Corbett!

After this we dropped down off the east side of Ben a Crois Chaolais and then made our way across the lumpy col between it and the Cluanie Ridge. At a point more than halfway along there is a right of way which eventually heads to Kinloch Hourn. We used it to drop down the Allt Mhalagain, a long descent in the late afternoon heat. We paused a few times at stream crossings to wash faces and refill bottles before eventually coming across the boggy land back to the A87.

What a day it had been. Tired from the heat but bowled over by the incredible views and fine scrambling of the Forcan Ridge.

Date: 24th May 2009
Distance: 12 miles
Time: 5 hours
Attendees: Me
Munros: Carn Gorm, Meall Garbh, Carn Mairg and Meall na Aighean
Weather: Sunny spells, cold gusting wind

Munros north of Glen Lyon at EveryTrail

Map created by EveryTrail:GPS Geotagging

It’s a wonderful feeling: leaving the house in brilliant sunshine, a hint of a frosty dawn still lingering in the air. The quiet roads were a joy and in no time at all I was off the A90 and winding my way through the backroads of first Angus and then Perthshire. A dash up a deserted A9 got me to Aberfeldy and then it was a matter of following the Glen Lyon/Bridge of Balgie signs until, having negotiated my way down the narrowest of single lane roads, I found myself at the car park below the telephone box in Invervar just a few minutes before 8:30am.

Kitted up and with slightly reckless shortsleeves I crossed the road, went through the gate and was soon heading up a track through the woods. Somewhere to my left there was the roar of the burn tumbling down and occasionally I glimpsed flecks of white water through the lush greenery that was basking in the early sunshine.

Leaving the woods onto more open hillside I continued up a well defined track. Ahead of me was the shoulder of the day’s second hill, Meall Garbh. White sheep dotted the hillside and as I climbed Glen Lyon opened up behind me. South, over the treetops could be seen the fastness of the Lawers range rising up until its peaks were lost in a cap of ominous grey cloud.

In the sunshine I was happy, crossing the rickety metal bridge at 660495 before continuing up the track on the left side of the burn. At a point just after the trees the main turned to climb onto the open moorland and the long ridge of Carn Gorm.

I was enjoying the walk by the water though and kept heading alongside it before finally climbing steep, boggy ground to reach the main track half way up the shoulder.

Ahead of me Carn Gorm showed a good profile, particular with the top of An Sgurr to its right. The track narrowed and zig-zagged its way up the face, the views on to the Lawers range getting better and better at each turn. An Stuc was just out of cloud whilst Lawers itself was still attracting a covering.

A level section was crossed and then the final pull up was completed with the summit being reached just an hour after setting off from the car. Up here the wind was strong and gusty and carried a feeling of snow. I stopped by the ruined trig points to admire the extensive view. Loch Rannoch was now revealed and beyond Lawers I could see Ben More and Stob Binnein.

In the sheltered side of the cairn I donned layers including hat and gloves as the temperature had dropped noticeably with the climb. From now on I’d be above 800m for the rest of the day until dropping down from the final summit.

A good path led off the top down the north ridge which had pleasing views back down the ascent route and a fine view of Loch Rannoch. Instead of staying on the main track I went up the top of An Sgurr before dropping down to the col below the next Munro, Meall Garbh.

The track climbed steeply beside a line of metal fence posts until the large cairn, topped by numerous posts, on a gentle domed summit.

The wind was biting but had definitely helped to break the cloud up meaning the sun was back out again. From the 968 summit I headed across to the 963 top and then returned to the fence line to drop down a bouldery summit to the next col.

From here and as I climbed up to Meall a’ Bharr there were excellent views onto the scree slopes of Schiehallion which lay just to the northeast.

Hardly any height is lost on this next section of plateau which runs around to the stony rim of Coire Chearcaill and brings you up close to the crag which forms a great southern facing prow to Carn Mairg.

I visited the summit and then dropped the sack behind the tor to have a scramble across it to get the views over to Ben Lawers and the final Munro of the day, Meall na Aighean.

Returning to the bag it was around 11:30 and having been walking for 3 hours now I decided it was high time for some food. After this I dropped steeply down close to the craps on the southern side of Carn Mairg. There was a track but this was a lot steeper than the recommended route down the east ridge. In no time I was heading across the peaty Bealach where I met the first walkers of the day. They had descended Meall na Aighean. I followed their steps up, branching left to reach the main summit just on 12pm.

As I sat on the jumbled summit, admiring views to Ben Lawers and the Tyndrum hills I felt quite satisfied at having got four Munros in before midday. Whilst there hadn’t been much re-ascent, it had been much colder than expected. It had been good to enjoy the solitude of these hills as well.

I dropped off the summit and visited the 974 top before joining the splendid main track which drops off the west ridge heading straight for Invervar.

I paused several times on the way down to enjoy the views but before too long I was rejoining the outward track and heading back through the forest to the now very much more crowded car park!

Date: 16th May 2009
Distance: 16.5 miles
Time: 9 hours
Attendees: The Stocket Hillwalking Club
Munros: Braeriach
Weather: Cloud at 800m, high winds

Braeriach at EveryTrail

Map created by EveryTrail:GPS Geotagging

The trundle around to Aviemore was long, and largely uneventful and, though the bus driver was dubious, we were eventually on the right road heading past Loch Morvich up towards the ski centre at Cairn Gorm. Jim was also doubtful but we turned into the car park opposite the walk start and were soon booting up under austere but definitely brightening skies (NH985073).

The paths in this area of the national park are excellent and we made good time, climbing up away from the road and walking towards the Chalamain Gap with the ski centre and funicular railway away on our left hand side. The cloud base was sitting at around 900m and with the sun beginning to shine over Aviemore there was an optimistic air.

The scramble through the Chalamain gap (always makes me want to sign Kid Charlemagne by Steely Dan…) was taken at a variety of paces on a number of routes. The jumble of boulders giving lots of opportunities for a slide, a stumble and some good scrambling but we emerged at the bealach below Craeg a Chalamain largely unscathed.

The narrow ribbon of the Lairig Ghru track was away below and this is what we made for, joining it just below the former site of the Sincliar Hut.

Whilst until now it had seemed that the sun might make a bid for freedom, at the Sinclair Hut (NH959037) it closed in and a steady rain began to fall. We had elevenses here (though it was closer to 12:30 after the late start) before donning waterproofs and heading up the good track on the other side of the Ghru. This climbed steeply up the north-eastern ridge of Braeriach although after only a hundred meters or so of ascent we were in the cloud.

Progress was slow as we tried to maintain close distance between groups. This was largely successful until I deviated from the main path (around NH964014), instead choosing to navigate using the cairns which mark the two bumps on the ridge. The following group took the path but we didn’t know this until later. There was a tense ten minutes until we were reunited at the cairn of Sron na Lairige.

After this we had an entertaining twenty minutes where we dropped off the wrong side of the hill in the mist and ended up having to turn back on ourselves. Eventually we were back on course and at the col below the main summit plateau. We contoured round and rejoined the main track which emerged from under the first of several snow fields. Following footprints and the track was easy enough despite the visibility being virtually zero, and the wind blowing the cloud fiercely into our faces.

After what seemed like an hour the terrain finally levelled off and we came across the summit cairn, poised close to the cliffs in a deep layer of snow. A little further west we found a sheltered spot to gratefully take lunch. It had been an exhausting toil up from the Lairig Ghru and was now well into the afternoon.

Given the time our original plan to continue across the plateau and then drop into Gleann Einich was abandoned in favour of returning by the inward route. Following the path the whole way this time we made much better progress, eventually dropping down out of the claustrophobic clouds. They had slightly lifted so we got raggedy views down from the final part of the ridge into the Lairig Ghru.

Back at the Sinclair Hut area waterproofs were taken off and under a brightening sky we started the long march out to Coylumbridge. At first the path was treachorous with rocks and stones but as we approached the trees lower down it improved and we cracked on at a much better pace. Into the trees and the sun finally appeared, bathing everything in the glow of a late afternoon.

As we got further towards the finish of the day we passed people cooking dinner outside their tents and the occassional family on mountain bikes. Eventually we emerged back at the main road and had a weary walk down the pavement to the Coylumbridge Hotel where the coach was waiting for us.

It had been a long trip and though the views were non-existent it was nonetheless rewarding to get to the top of the UK’s third highest peak in less than ideal conditions. The GPS earnt its bread today though it should be noted that the compass got us out of the 180 turn!

I only took photos until just after the Chalamain Gap but here they are: Flickr Photoset

Distance: 15 miles
Time: 5.5 hours (including breakfast)
Munros: Broad Cairn, Cairn Bannoch
Start: Car Park at the Spittal of Glenmuick
Weather: Beautifully clear, cold start but later overcast

So, sometimes it’s good to shake up the normal routine of a weekend. After going to see Star Trek with friends I got back and looked up on a velvety blue sky shimmering with stars. The summer triangle was creeping above the horizon and inside the weather forecast promised a continuation of this clear spell at least until midday. MWIS concurred with the eastern hills being given an 80% chance of being cloud free during Sunday morning.

With the promise of a good sunrise and the stars signalling the return to short summer nights I packed the sack, made some food and quietly loaded everything into the car, trying not to disturb the neighbours.

I rolled out of Aberdeen, accompanied by a few taxi drivers and wandering revellers a little after 2am and was soon alone on the A93 behind the far-reaching beams of my headlamps. The roads were, of course, quiet and I passed unnoticed through the villages along the Dee, eventually crossing the river at Ballater and picking up the road to the Spittal of Glenmuick.

It was eerie making my way down the single track. Every passing place sign and snowpole was illuminated far in front of me by my lights. More unnerving though were the small packs of deer that, at my approach, decided they wanted to be on the other side of the road as quickly as possible. Thankfully I made it to the carpark without harming any wildlife.

A campervan, a car and an estate truck were the only vehicles in evidence at the car park at 3:30am. I found I only had £2.90 in change (the rest being 5ps which the machine does not accept). I left the car without ticket thinking that I’d be back and out before the crowds arrived anyway.

The night was still and peaceful and it was a delight to walk along the good track towards Loch Muick. I had the headtorch but after passing through the trees switched it off, letting my senses adjust to the sights and sounds of the tranquil pre-dawn. In the east there was already a lightening of the sky evident, the hills standing black against it.

I made steady progress along the west side of the Loch, stopping occasionally to watch as the glow in the east steadily grey. The colour of the Loch was wonderful. In front of me I saw Broad Cairn emerge from the gloaming, its peak scattered with snow.

As the light grew I climbed the zig-zagging track up to reach the high plateau leading up to Broad Cairn.

The clouds were sticking over Lochnanagar and also Broad Cairn, sitting at around 900m. Above, the sky was turning red as a glow appeared beyond Mount Keen under a dark band of cloud.

As 5am approached I dropped my sack and sat back on a rock perched high above the Loch to watch the sun arrive. The changing quality of light was magnificent.

After this I carried on, passing Sandy’s Seat and getting views into Glen CLova. The snow of the past week had transformed Mayar and Dreish.

The climb up Broad Cairn is straightforward, with a track much of the way and only a bit of clambering required to ascend through the boulder fields. The only slight difficulty was the rocks encrusted with a thick layer of frost.

As 6am approached I was at the summit, clambering up to the Cairn and sitting down just out of the bitingly cold wind to enjoy the views and some breakfast.

I got a couple of shots as unfortunately the cloud drifted in once again, obscuring the sun and plunging me into a cold mist.

I took a bearing off the summit for the next top but just below the cairn picked up good track which wound its way across the plateau, across the top of Cairn of Galloch, and then up and on to Cairn Bannoch.

The rise was hardly anything which was appropriate as neither was the view. After only a couple of minutes spent in the swirling mist I headed down from the summit.

In clear weather it would have been good to head down to the crags above the Dubh Loch but in the conditions I went south west from the summit and picked up a snowfilled burn which took me down towards the Allt an Dubh-loch. I carefully picked my way across to the fast flowing stream, the views starting to open out. Most impressive was the waterfall tumbling down the Eagle Rocks.

I crossed the Allt and followed its left bank downhill towards the Dubh Loch which could now be seen between the steep sides of the crags. It was an impressive sight despite the overhead cloud.

As I dropped down the faint traces of a path could be seen and I now followed this until it became more distinct as shown on the map. Close to the Loch it was very boggy but as it rose up at the Loch’s foot it became much better and progress was good.

The path drops impressively down the side of the head of Glen Muick towards the Loch with the views opening out on all sides. Besides me Broad Cairn was starting to emerge from the clouds.

On a good path I was soon at Glas-allt-Shiel, pausing by the Loch in front of the house. After this it was a walk back down the side of Loch Muick, passing the boathouse and returning to the car just on 9am.

As I sat drinking a brew the first daywalkers were pulling into the car park and booting up. It felt good to have had this busy place completely to myself.