Distance: 12.09 km
Ascent: 1,149 m
Time: 5hrs 40mins
Munros: Sgurr a’ Mhaoraich (1,036m)
Weather: Early high cloud clearing to blue skies. Very cold with snow above 700m
Route: Click to view

The stag prancing about in the field besides the Invergarry Lodge Hostel seemed as delighted with the continuing good weather as we were. Under a sky that was patchy grey with bits of blue steadily appearing, we loaded up the cars and set off once again down the twisty-turny Kinlochhourn Road.

It was a quiet Sunday morning with mist blossoming over Loch Garry and hovering like a strange alien ship above the winding river. There was not a breath of wind and gradually the rising sun scattered the remaining cloud. As we parked up besides Loch Quoich we had stunningly blue skies above us.

The stalkers path that rises from the loch side can only be described as a work of wonder. Rising on a steady gradient it climbs besides the chattering allt before swooping across the bare hillside to dangle the hiker high above the northern arm of Loch Quoich.

With the freezing level well below our starting elevation we encountered ice, and later frozen snow up the entire length of the path. Luckily the excellent drainage kept the hazard to a minimum. The sunlight streaming across the mountains south and west of the loch was utterly magnificent. Fresh dustings of snow on Sgurr na Ciche and Sgurr Mor caught the bright sun whilst the heathery hillsides were a fiery orange. The waters of the loch were a deep and brilliant shade of blue. It was a sight of spectacular beauty; lonely and wild and utterly brilliant.

The path brought us along the west side of the lumpy ridge that runs up to the southwest corner of Gleouraich. At times the frozen surface gave the need for a cautious step as the drop to the left is steep and unbroken until you hit the winding river meandering through a frozen swamp far below. It was made more dangerous by the distracting views, both ahead and behind. In front the grand line of the South Glen Shiel Ridge was less snow covered than the day before but no less impressive.

We paused at the small col for a bite to eat and then it was onwards, following the continuation of the stalkers path as it now climbed the shoulder of Gleouraich. At the end of the path a strange stone turret stands, evidently a high perch for shooting from as it had a commanding view down the wide corrie. From here the path remains clear, though it climbs steeply and directly up to the small col to the west of the main summit, and soon our legs were burning with the change in gradient.

Skipping over frozen boulders in the sunshine we made our way up the final ridge to the summit and stood, mouths agape, marvelling at the panoramic views from this stupendous viewpoint.

We had a clear view down Loch Quoich to the Rough Bounds of Knoydart as well as over the hill we climbed the previous day. To the east an inviting ridge, snow glinting white in the sunshine, drew my away to the end where the second Munro of the day, Gleouraich, stood. To the north the Affric hills, including the long ridges of Sgùrr nan Ceathramhnan.

We dropped slightly off the summit to sit in the sunshine to have food and hot drinks.

From here we now had a clear route eastward along the fine ridge. The northern corries of the mountains were dramatic; choked with rock fall and grey-white with ice and frost. Beyond the sun-filled glen the line of the South Shiel Ridge marched on, east and west to where the Saddle lay, just starting to attract a covering of cloud.

We continued along until we came over the top at the eastern end of Gleouraich’s long, winding ridge. This one is snappily called Creag Coire na Fiar Bhealaich but the views were much better than any of our attempts at pronounciation.

From here there is quite a loss of height, down a steeply zig-zagging path with a couple of large rocky slabs, to the bealach which separates Gleouraich from its neighbour, Spidean Mialach.

The re-ascent to the first prominence on the ridge was quite laborious, rising steeply up through scree and rocks and with a path that peetered out once the rougher ground was reached higher up. The steepness slackened eventually though and then it was a more gentle and enjoyable walk along the sinuous ridge, going over a number of false summits, until finally the true summit of Spidean Mialach appeared ahead.

At this time, behind us, the hills of Kintail were slowly being engulfed by a passing snow shower. It wasn’t clear how long this was going to last so I picked up the pace in order to get to the summit of Spidean Mialach whilst it was still clear.

In the end there was nothing to worry about. I clambered up the final few snow covered boulders and stretched out excited fingers to touch the cairn. This was the summit of my 100th Munro!

The views were just sublime. The snow shower, which passed over Loch Quoich and sent tiny flakes swirling gently around us, added another dimension to the views. After taking photos we sat about and had a long lunch, chatting with a lady from Bolton who was on her 50th Munro (not to mention wild camping)!

Once we were done with lunch and with taking in the views it was time to head back down. The south side of Spidean Mialach is fairly gentle and grassy and a clear track, boggy in places, cuts diagonally down from the summit. It angles for the coire to the right of Loch Fearna. We made our way down, doing our best to avoid the worst of the bog, and stopping to take pictures down Loch Quoich.

From below Loch Fearna the ground got increasingly marshy. We picked our way as best we could along the hillside above the floor of the coire until we came along the end of a low ridge that wound its way down past the weather station (?) and down to where we had left me car earlier in the day.

After this it was a simple matter of collecting the other car and then getting prepared for the long journey back to Aberdeen.

The first part of the journey for me was stop start as the light in Glen Garry was stunning. I took several photos of Loch Garry before taking the slightly longer route via Loch Loyne and along to Invermoriston.

After this it was the usual route up alongside Loch Ness, then Inverness and the long cross-country drive to Aberdeen as darkness fell.

Distance: 14.32 km
Ascent: 925 m
Time: 6hrs 30mins
Munros: Sgurr a’ Mhaoraich (1,027m)
Weather: Early high cloud clearing to blue skies. Very cold with snow above 700m
Route: Click to view

The twists and turns of the Kinlochhourn road are probably enough to make most people wish they hadn’t bothered with breakfast. I was driving and even I felt a little funny as we booted up under steely skies besides Loch Quoich.

The previous day I had driven through almost continual rain from Aberdeen to Invergarry, a small village nestled comfortably in the Great Glen. Even a detour further south late in the afternoon to Glenfinnan (location of the viaduct made famous by the Harry Potter film franchise) had not given me any respite and it had been with some trepidation that we discussed our proposed route over a pleasant pint or two of the local Garry Ale in the Invergarry Hotel on Friday night. The baked whole sea bream I had for a main was delicious but the staff seemed a little dour.

In the end, after a good night’s sleep in the brilliant Invergarry Lodge hostel, we had nothing to worry about. The MWIS forecast entirely failed to materialise and as we put our first steps on the stalkers path leading up to Sgurr Coire nan Eiricheallach there was already a brightness gleaming through the clouds.

It was my first time out in this part of the country and I was instantly won over by the wildness of it. Though there is a dam, pylons and associated road, the mark of humans feels muted by the splendour and isolation of the peaks which surround this loch.

I should mention that today was a special day for one member of the Stocket Hillwalking Club. After 16 years, Tony was about to complete his Munros. It was to be a day of huge enjoyment, starting out with a photo opportunity lined up along the path above the parking area with great views east down Loch Quoich and over to Gairich.

From there we began the long but easy climb up the excellent path which gradually brought us above the waters of loch, the mountains across the water gradually losing their cloud caps. There was a dusting of snow on the peaks that led out towards Knoydart as well as on the Munro of Gleouraich to our east.

However, the party piece during the early stages of the day was the South Glen Shiel Ridge which came into sight as we climbed up below the flat summit of Sgurr Coire nan Eiricheallach. The long line of Munros each had a cap of fresh white snow with the line drawn distinctly a quarter of the way down their side; a calendar-perfect view of Scottish mountains.

We continued on and as we tracked back slightly to the summit cairn of Sgurr Coire nan Eiricheallach the sun was definitely out and blue skies were spreading all around us. It seemed like we had chosen the right place to be as further south there were high banks of cloud that blocked out the view of Nevis, the Grey Corries and the Glenfinnan Hills.

From the summit of Sgurr Coire nan Eiricheallach you get a great view up to the much higher summit of Sgurr a’ Mhaoraich, a delightfully undulating ridge leading the eye westward to the frost shrouded peak.

We made our way towards it, following the well worn track that keeps close to the crest of the ridge and crosses a couple of dry stone walls. After the second of these the path climbs up, close to the crags that separate the steep northern slopes from the more gentle eastern approach.

The final slope up to the rocky eastern col was very steep and covered in powdery snow with some vegetation poking through in places. We picked our way up the slope until we came out on the top. Immediately we had stunning views west to Loch Hourn, the mountains of Knoydart, and out to the Black Cuillin on Skye.

It was a delight to climb up the final snow-covered slope to where the summit cairn stood on a rocky shelf.

The views were simply incredible. This summit occupies an enviable position, commanding fine views of the encircling mountains and far out to the western isles. As well as the close by Saddle and Beinn Sgritheall, we could see Skye, Eigg, the Affric hills and further north to Liathach in Torridon.

Once everyone had gathered on the summit the celebrations could begin. Various people, including myself, had carried up bottles of champagne which were placed in a nearby snow drift to chill. Then we prepared the avenue of walking poles for Tony to run through and touch the summit cairn. Once there he had a cork to pop and soon the champagne was flowing freely, accompanied by cake and the most spectacular views you could ask for. We spent a happy hour up on the summit.

After the celebrations it was time to continue with the traverse. Although there are a couple of different options to continue on from the summit, the general consensus was to drop down west to the lower top of Sgurr a’ Mhaoraich Beag and then return to the roadside in order to get back to the cars.

The feeling of space on this part of the hike was quite incredible. All around us the snow-capped mountains shone brightly in the midday sun. Fluffy white clouds drifted through a blue sky. It felt like with just a couple of big steps you could be in the heart of Knoydart or scrambling along the Cuillin ridge. Days as pure and brilliant as this one are rare in Scotland and it was a privilege to be out breathing in the cold, clear air and seeing these spectacular sights.

The initial descent from Sgurr a’ Mhaoraich is steep and stony, a faint path picking its way through crags and rocks and occasionally sending you close to the edge of the western ridge. This gave dramatic views across to the Saddle and beyond.

At the bealach we paused briefly before continuing up the more gentle incline to reach the summit of Sgurr a’ Mhaoraich Beag. From the wide summit I continued some way to the west to get a perfect view over Kinlochhourn, down the stunning Loch Hourn and across to the mountains of Knoydart.

After this people started to pick their own way down off the hill. My own route took me down besides a developing stream that gathered more tributaries as it fell until it grew to be a significant water course. Here, deep in the corrie and sheltered from any scrap of wind by the surrounding mountains, and with the sun beating down out of an unbroken sky it was swelteringly hot.

Layers were lost as we eventually picked up a boggy path that followed the stream which now cascaded on our right down towards the road in a series of waterfalls. It wasn’t always pleasant going but eventually we made it down to the road and began the somewhat arduous walk back around to the cars.

The going along the rolling road was enlivened by the sighting of an eagle (or some other large bird of prey) circling above Sgurr a’ Mhaoraich’s south-eastern shoulder, and later a stag which paused just above the road in a perfect tourist office approved pose. Finally the blue waters of Loch Quoich appeared and we were back at the cars.

We now had a long wait for the rest of the group to get back. Everyone had got quite separated and so I took the car back long the road a couple of times to round up stragglers. Between these we lazed around in the beautifully warm late afternoon sunshine.

The drive back was just as twisty as the way in had been but now we stopped a couple of times to take photos and stretch tired legs. We got back to Invergarry Lodge as the sun sank behind the hills and then it was into celebration mode: a speech, gin and tonics and then a great meal followed by singing and chatting late into the night.

I’m quite envious that I won’t get to do this one as my last Munro; it made for a great day out. Still, it had brought me one step closer to my 2010 goal of 100 Munros, and with a brilliant MWIS forecast posted for Sunday it looked like Munos 99 and 100 would very shortly be in the bag.

Distance: 20.98 km
Ascent: 897 m
Time: 6hrs 24mins
Munros: Carn Aosda (917m), The Cairnwell (933m), Carn a’ Gheoidh (975m)
Weather: Early cloud and hill fog improving to sunny spells later in the day. Very light but cold northerly wind.
Route: Click to view

The fact that I stumbled off a doorstep onto a cold, dark Aberdeen street at 6:30am on Saturday morning would perhaps give you the wrong impression of my Friday night. In fact, I had spent a perfectly civilised evening playing board games and eating sushi. The early start was eased by the fact that I only had to walk the ten minutes along to the meeting point for October’s Stocket Hillwalking Club Saturday walk.

At just after 7am we rolled out of Aberdeen, heading along besides the River Dee with 21 Stockets on board. I was helping out today so was up and down the bus for the first part of the journey, collecting money and then talking people through the day’s proposed route. At Ballater we stopped to pick up the club’s President, and fuelled up with delicious pies and hot coffee at the bakers (second breakfast).

It was grey and cold at Ballater but as we moved further inland occasional breaks could be seen and there was blue sky over the Cairngorms as we passed through Braemar towards our dropping off point below the Pass of Glenshee at Baddoch.

Under sombre skies, and with limited room by the side of the A93, we were quickly kitted up and moving down the vehicle track which runs alongside the Baddoch burn. As we approached the farm building at Baddoch itself we turned away from the track, climbing a hillside that was at first steep and grassy but soon had us up on to the long northern ridge of Carn Aosda.

Initially a muddy track was followed up to Carn Chrionaidh where we saw a herd of deer with accompanying stag on the skyline. Up until that point we had heard their bellows echoing along the sinuous line of the Baddoch. After this though the ridge became a delight, a short and springy carpet of clipped heather with a winding track that climbed delightfully above the Dubh-Coire.

Across to the east the tops beyond the A93 road were shrouded in a gloomy cloud. We too were climbing into it as we approached the quartzite slopes below Carn Aosda. After a short descent we climbed up the coire that separates the eastern and western tops of the first Munro of the day. With very little effort we were at the summit cairn.

There wasn’t much of a view to speak of as we munched on elevenses and so we were pretty soon heading back along the track, picking up the route which skirts around the top of Butchart’s Coire. Occasionally the ski centre paraphernalia loomed eerily out of the mist. Fortunately the signs were promising as in front of us dark shapes slowly resolved themselves into our route ahead. Loch Vrotachan was particularly still as we passed it to the east.

Only a few minutes later we climbed up the track that, along with power and communications cables, runs up to the summit of The Cairnwell, our second Munro of the day.

The top of The Cairnwell is strewn with rocks, cairns, buildings and masts and is really quite a mess. Luckily it was possible to continue a short way to the south to escape much of it and gaze down the long stretch of Gleann Beag which drops down from the pass to the Spittal of Glenshee, our final destination for the day. There were showers grazing distant hilltops but everything was definitely getting clearer despite the unnerving lack of wind.

We then retraced our upward steps back to a branching path that headed away from Butchart’s Coire to join the long, meandering ridge that connects The Cairnwell and Carn Aosda to Carn nan Sac, a subsidiary peak of the third Munro of the day, Carn a’ Gheoidh.

This part was one of the most enjoyable sections of the hike. As the clouds began to properly clear, the landscape was slowly revealed, peaks resolving out of shades of grey and white.

To the east the sunlight was breaking through, casting spectacular rays onto the glen and mountains beyond.

We made our way around the ridge to the summit of Carn nan Sac. This has a number of cairns but we chose the most easterly of them to stop for lunch. This afforded fine views out to the south and the east.

From here it was a gentle amble along the wide, grassy plateau to the final climb up to the summit of Carn a’ Gheoidh. By this time there were flecks of blue sky to be seen and the visibility was superb. The nearer hills in the Glas Tulaichean group were easy to pick out, and beyond them the three humpbacks of Beinn a’ Ghlo could be seen. Even further away was the distinctive shape of Schiehallion. To the west we could see Lochnagar, Carn of Claise, Carn an Tuirc, Glas Maol and Creag Leachach with the hills above Blair Atholl, including Mount Blair, visible to the southeast. To the north the Cairngorms were being picked out by bright afternoon sunshine, all the way around from Cairn Toul to Ben Avon.

After spending a fair few minutes enjoying this marvellous panorama, helped by the fact that the wind was very light and the sun was shining, we dropped off the south side of Carn a’ Gheoidh to continue our north-south traverse.

The mountains long, broad southern ridge extends across a number of lumpy summits until it meets the Corbett of Ben Gulabin. Recent stalking activities have brought a vehicle track much of the way up this ridge and it was this that we followed back down, enjoying the views of the hills around Dalmunzie.

We passed the track that leads up to the summit of Ben Gulabin but the thought of a pint or two at the Spittal hotel was too much and we were drawn onwards, dropping down the track to meet the A93 just a couple of km short of the Spittal. We then had to pick our way along the road, avoiding the tarmac as much as possible and enjoying a last view back up Glen Shee.

We arrived at the hotel at the very civilised hour of 3:30 and were able to while away a good couple of pints in the bar where a roaring fire kept everything cosy. It was then back on the coach for the ride back to Aberdeen. Another excellent and enjoyable Stocket walk was completed – next month we climb the Buck of Cabrach and a completely new hillwalking area for me.

Distance: 23.77 km
Ascent: 1318 m
Time: 7hrs 12mins
Munros: Carn Liath (1006m), Stob Poite Coire Ardair (1053m), Creag Meagaidh (1130m)
Weather: Early cloud giving way to sunshine, very strong winds on top
Route: Click to view

Autumn has definitely been making its presence felt in the east of Scotland with wind and rain blowing through constantly during the past week. Meanwhile, over in the west there had been reports of high pressure and clear, though windy, conditions. With a good forecast for Sunday (and after missing my alarm on Saturday) I was up early and speeding across towards the west.

The MWIS forecast suggested there would be a weather split around the line of the A9, so today I chose to do a circuit of Creag Meagaidh which lies to the north of the road between Aviemore and Spean Bridge. There were high winds forecast and so I chose to do the round in an anti-clockwise direction, keeping the easterly wind to my back.

At the large public car park at Aberarder which I arrived at just after 10am, there was definitely a strong wind blowing and it felt cold. This was despite the best efforts of the sun which was starting to break out through the fast moving clouds. Looking at the conditions I decided to take the winter jacket and was later very glad of it.

The jacket wasn’t needed at first though. Once kitted up I set off up the well built track which passes the large house and then winds its way gently up, passing through sparse woodland; the russets and golds on display in the glen here were beautiful.

At a small cairn I took a smaller track which branched off uphill and to the right. This track was reasonably good to begin with as it climbed up through the trees, but rapidly descended into a boggy ribbon as the vegetation thinned.

Luckily the views that were starting to open out, both ahead and behind, were sufficient to take my mind off the undesirable conditions underfoot. Behind me rays of sunlight were bursting out of thinning cloud to touch the waters of Loch Laggan, whilst to my left I could see deeper into Coire Ardair, the great Coire around which the peaks of Creag Meagaidh sit watchfully.

Just below the low summit of Cnap Cnapanan, the bog finally relented and the path became excellent. This relatively low jumble of crags was bypassed around its north side, giving excellent views down Loch Laggan, and then the final push up Carn Liath began. The track continued until the final summit boulder field where it was lost amongst the hard, featureless ground.

Unfortunately, as I had climbed I had entered into the cloud which was stubbornly sitting at around 975m. It was being whipped up by the strong easterly wind that now hit me with its full force as I staggered east, making my way from one cairn to the next until I came to the big cairn marking the summit.

I was very glad of the windbreak in the lee side of the cairn and sat down to have a brew and a snack. Away north, towards Garva bridge and the glen containing the young Spey, there was blue sky beginning to break through.

Over the course of ten minutes the views improved dramatically and by the time I had stopped to have a look at the “gate to nowhere” and then returned past the cairn to pick up the main track west, there was definite signs of an improvement.

Carrying on down from the summit of Carn Liath I was soon bathed in sunshine. Sheltered from the wind by the bulk of Carn Liath it was wonderfully warm, swiftly bringing life back to my cold fingers.

From Carn Liath to the next Munro, Stob Poite Coire Ardair, there is a gentle rolling walk along an undulating ridge that takes in a number of smaller summits. As I advanced along it the views continued to improve, the cloud being teased away from the summits in front of me.

The track led along the crest of the ridge and here I once again encountered the wind which was now thankfully (or else because of my excellent route planning!) behind me. I paused often to peer down into the coire and take photos looking along towards the cliffs. In the distance I could now see the fabled Window, the one weakness in Coire Ardair’s otherwise impenetrable defences.

Finally after crossing a subsidiary top the ridge curves around to the left up to the second Munro of the day, Stob Poite Coire Ardair.

From the approach to the east this is a shapely mountain with riven gulleys in its facing side. Once you are on top though it is a fairly flat plateau which runs some distance towards the west end where the summit cairn is to be found. Luckily, though the terrain lacked interest, the views down into Coire Ardair were spectacular. Each time I went over to have a look the lighting had changed, breaks in the cloud sending rays down to hit the valley floor and push rippling patterns across the hidden lochan.

The views back to Carn Liath were also improving with the increasing sunshine. Eventually I tore myself away to briefly visit the summit cairn. It was so windy though that I barely spent more than a minute there before heading off the west and dropping down on a good path to the shelter of the Window, a wide col above the narrow defile which drops rapidly down into Coire Ardair.

The main plateau of Creag Meagaidh itself had by now cleared almost entirely of cloud and as the final layer was peeled away the summit could be seen, complete with a couple of tiny figures silhouetted against the sun.

At the Window I paused to take advantage of the shelter offered by the close set walls and in the sunshine enjoyed a lunch, looking away across the wild and desolate hills that sit to the east of the Great Glen above the infant waters of the Spey.

As I was sitting contemplating the view, I noticed running up from the far end of the nearby Lochan Uaine, what appeared to be a ridgeline that rose neatly up to almost the summit of Creag Meagaidh. I got the map out and studied the contours and found that it was a ramp-like corrie that should make a good route up. Going this way would avoid me retracing my steps as I had already made my mind up to descend by the Window and visit Coire Ardair itself.

After lunch I packed up and left the baggers path which heads up the slope to the south of the Window. I skirted along slightly bouldery and boggy ground to the north of the Green Lochan. At the far end I found a jumble of boulders that I climbed which brought me along a grass rake to the foot of the corrie itself.

Almost immediately I found a faint track which led upwards. I lost it occasionally amongst crags and rocks but then picked it up again higher up. In almost no time I emerged on the plateau of Creag Meagaidh itself with just the final pull up the summit to complete. I was there in no-time.

The views from the summit were simply sublime. A haze pervaded the view and thick clouds were rolling up against distant peaks. The quality of light was almost surreal, the haze turning the sky grey on the horizon but leaving it a clear and crystalline deep blue above. I moved slightly away from the summit to sit and take in the views.

After this I retreated back to the summit cairn to enjoy a final brew whilst staying sheltered from the wind. Then it was back down the way I’d come, but this time continuing across the plateau to take a look at Mad Meg’s Cairn, a huge structure below which was reportedly buried the body of a young girl who committed suicide but was refused a burial in the local kirkyard.

After this I headed eastwards to peer over the edge of the cliffs into Coire Ardair itself. The view from this end was very dramatic with the late afternoon sunshine lighting the far side of the coire whilst the lochan was lost in shadow.

From here I then followed the clear track back down to the Window. I didn’t stay too long at the col but now took the path that dropped into the Window itself.

From the col the initial descent is very steep down a cascade of boulders which are damp and cold in their sheltered eastern position. After some time of making only slow progress I finally reached a line of grass that descended down the side of the boulders, a faint track zig-zagging its way down.

A final clamber across the bottom of the boulders got me onto a good track that now made its way to the shores of the lochan. The views up onto the cliffs were breathtaking. Slightly further down the coire two stags were bellowing, their cries low and mournful but echoing strangely off the rocks.

I sat for a moment munching on a final bar of chocolate and looking over the quiet waters of the lochan, the dark cliffs standing solemnly behind. This is definitely a place I want to return to.

After this there was no problem with routefinding. An excellent track runs the length of the coire, from the lochan back to Aberader. Once away from the cliffs I was back in the golden afternoon sunshine and got to enjoy a wonderfully peaceful walk back, breathing in the views.

Closer to Loch Laggan you pass through a few stands of beech trees and these were stunning, illuminated by the sun. Unfortunately my SLR battery died at this point so I was left with my phone camera to capture them.

Eventually, around an hour or so after leaving the lochan I arrived back at the car park, the sun starting to sink below the hills and a chill creeping into the air.

After packing up and changing shoes I started the long drive back to Aberdeen, pausing a couple of times initially to photograph the stunning sunset.

It had been a great day with conditions improving all the time and the consistent haze bringing a dramatic aspect to the light.