/// Prologue (3rd August 2007)
Bright sunlight streamed through the wide windows facing onto Invercargill’s main thoroughfare. There was time to get a quick bite of breakfast and a cup of coffee whilst we waited for the minibus to come around and pick us up. People chatted amiably, the conversation largely focussed on the day ahead, the journey to Te Anau and the prospect of heading to Milford Sound. In contrast we were the only people who had taken up the option to spend three nights on Stewart Island and were slightly more uncertain of what the next few days would bring.
After the North and South Islands, Stewart Island is New Zealand’s third largest and is located off the southwest corner of the South Island, jutting out into the Pacific and the last significant landfall before Antarctica. It is famed for its wildlife and boasts a population of kiwis (the bird) several times larger than the population of Kiwis (the people).
The Kiwi Experience Bottom Bus timetable means that you have a three night stay on Stewart Island and browsing the literature this seemed like the perfect amount of time to give the Rakiura Track, one of New Zealand’s “Great Walks”, a go. Of course, this didn’t take into account the wild weather that had been just a step in front of us all the way around the country. Storms and heavy rain had recently torn across the island causing flooding and landslides. We were to find out that the track had been closed in a couple of places by the Department of Conservation.
As we pulled into the harbour at Bluff on a perfect late winter morning though we knew none of this. We bid farewell to our fellow travellers and boarded the Stewart Island Experience ferry, a small catermeran type boat which plies the choppy waters between Bluff and Half Moon Bay on the north-east side of the island. The sun was filtering through clouds that hugged the horizon and the water was fairly smooth given that this was essentially the Pacific Ocean. A polystyrene cup of coffee and a muffin later and we were stepping onto the pier at Half Moon Bay.
/// On Stewart Island
Half Moon Bay is the largest settlement on Stewart Island and on some of the maps is referred to as Oban (continuing the Far South’s Scottish heritage theme). A couple of streets run up from the fishing harbour into wooded hillsides. Houses and small businesses line these streets and there is a shop, a hostel and the Department of Conservation office.
After orientating ourselves we called into the latter to book our hut passes and get the latest information on the trail. Unfortunately this was when we found out about the track closures. Luckily the officer informed us that the track was open around to the North Arm Hut so rather than do the full three day tramp, we could do an out and back, staying for one night in the hut.
The officer also tried to get in touch with a person who was usually in a position to hire out hiking/camping gear including stoves and sleeping bags, none of which we had with us. This was to be the second minor obstacle provided by the Island. The person had left to go on holiday! Unfortunately there was nowhere else on the island to get camping gear. Reluctantly we decided to call in at the hostel we had booked into for the final night on the island. We needed to amend our booking to account for the day less on the track and see whether they had anything we could borrow. The hostel owner was sympathetic to our plight but unfortunately didn’t have any sleeping bags or other camping equipment. She was however willing to lend us a couple of winter duvets which at least would keep us warm overnight.
With these in our bags we dropped down to the shop to purchase some provisions, including snacks, some tinned food, matches and firelighters. It was all rather Heath Robinson but we finally decided we had enough to get through a single night out in the wilderness and so with our bags full and clutching our map and hut pass, we headed along Fern Gully Road to the Rakiura trail head.
I think it is testament to both the limitless supplies of optimism in the New Zealand people, and the amount of that optimism that had rubbed off on us over the past few weeks, that we decided to go for it. Faced with the same situation at home I think it would have been a weekend in front of the television!
/// The Rakiura Track
From the road end at Fern Gully Road we hit the start of the trail proper. This part of the track was constructed to service several saw mills that were built on the island in the early 20th century. As such it is broad and follows gentle contours around to Kaipipi Bay where we stopped for a spot of lunch.
From Kaipipi Bay we were now on a much narrower track that cut through the beautiful sub-tropical forest. The track follows the contours of the land, rising and falling across several small stream valleys. In many places boardwalk has been put in, keeping you above the fragile and often slippery forest floor. Whilst this makes for good progress the constant stepping up and down certainly gives your legs a work out!
The weather was good with occasional sunshine peering through the dense foliage. It was quite wonderful to be the only humans walking through a landscape otherwise almost entirely dominated by nature. The track, the occasional bridge crossing or small dam glimpsed up a narrow ravine were the only signs of anything artificial. Birds flittered amongst the branches and the damp undergrowth gave off the smell of clean, unsullied nature. Glimpses of water through the trees was an almost constant feature and the quality of the light was just incredible.
Even though this was the sheltered side of the island there were still reminders of the bad weather that had torn across the country in previous weeks. Though the majority of the track was in good condition we did come across sections where torrents of water had washed through, stripping the land and exposing bare, slippery tree roots and leaving some stretches of thick, gloopy mud.
With shoulders aching a little and the sun starting to sink towards the horizon we came around to Sawdust Bay were the track once again drops down to the shoreline. This was the site of yet more previous forestry and timber works. We dropped our packs at the campsite and had a quick explore of the beach, looking out to smaller islands and tree-drenched headlands across the Paterson Inlet.
We took some water here, purifying it with our iodine tablets and then set off on the final stretch, the track now turning north and making for North Arm Hut still some distance away. The terrain involved more slippery tree roots as we climbed up and across another couple of hillsides. Feeling the miles under our feet we were very glad to come around the corner, as the track drops down towards North Arm Bay itself, to find the excellent hut.
The hut was a large two room affair with the front room containing a wood burning stove, a table and chairs and some work surfaces, whilst at the rear was the sleeping area, just simple wooden shelves where we could spread out our duvets. Close by was an outhouse. It was all really quite civilised.
There was a good stockpile of wood outside but unfortunately it had been exposed to the recent driving rain and was thoroughly soaked. Bringing in the driest looking pieces we tried using various methods to get a fire going. I should mention here that I was never in the scouts and it showed! Despite our best efforts, each time we put a fire lighter in, though the smaller sticks would catch, there was never sufficient heat to get the larger logs going and so unfortunately we spent the night without a fire.
Outside cloud had rolled in and a slow drizzle was falling. We had an explore outside the hut and though there were definite rustlings in the undergrowth we didn’t get a sighting of a kiwi in its natural environment.
After a rather cold (though after our long, long day, a quite delicious) baked bean dinner we wrapped ourselves up in all our clothes and then wrapped ourselves up in the duvet for the night.
/// Return to Half Moon Bay (4th August 2007)
It definitely wasn’t the best sleep I’ve ever had but we survived and as a pale, watery dawn broke over the hut we got up to make our preparations for the day. Outside the cloud was very low and the drizzle had turned into a steady rain. Without much in the way of supplies left, and with no prospect of the wood getting any drier we decided to head back.
Full waterproofs were employed for the tramp back. With the track further around closed by flooding we followed our outward route back to Half Moon Bay. This time the trees dripped with constant water and the rivers were fuller, running swift and silty below the bridges. We slipped and slid our way along the muddier sections and did our best to pick our way between the slippery roots. The views were non-existent and so we pressed on, looking forward to the warmth of the hostel back at Half-Moon Bay.
Eventually we dropped back down to Fern Gully road and made the final damp tramp down to the Youth Hostel where we were able to get out of soaking waterproofs and chill out with hot food and drinks in the common room. After an exciting and adventurous night out in the New Zealand wilderness it was good to be back amongst the luxuries of modern living.
At the time, and particularly when we were struggling with the fire and later on lying in the pitch dark with just a couple of duvets for warmth, it felt quite miserable, but looking back it was an experience I wouldn’t trade out for anything. Since then I have become a much more proficient hiker and camper and have learnt a lot more about staying warm and dry when out and about. This tramp around the Rakiura Track gave me that first taste of that and I will always be glad we went and gave it a go. One day I intend to return to New Zealand and do some proper tramping, using all the experience and equipment I now own, and then, maybe then, I’ll see a kiwi in its natural habitat.
/// Epilogue
We spent two further nights on Stewart Island, and on the third day enjoyed exploring the beautiful and tranquil bays around the hostel. We spent time out under the southern stars on the final clear night and then caught the ferry back to the mainland. If anyone is planning on travelling around the bottom of the South Island I would definitely recommend taking the time to tag on a trip to Stewart Island. It is a wonderful place that feels quite different again from the main islands.
Note: New Zealand top maps from http://www.topomap.co.nz/NZTopoMap
