Time: 3hrs 8 mins
Distance: 8.79km
Ascent: 920m
Munros: Stob Coire Raineach (925m), Stob Dubh (958m)
Weather: Early cloud and mist, clearing with sunshine later
Route: Click to view

I wanted something short to round out my weekend in Glen Coe and after perusing a few reports and the maps, settled on the “wee Buchaille” or Buachaille Etive Beag as a good target. There were rumours of a very boggy approach but I am pleased to report that the NTS have completed their pathwork in this area and there is now a brilliant approach path and staircase all the way up the mountain. This now has to be one of the easiest and most approachable Munros for all abilities. It was so good that I made it up and down in just a shade over three hours and didn’t see anyone until I was on my way back down! This was great as it gave me two empty summits.

The walk starts from the large parking place just off the A82. I was the first car there at about 8:30am. The tops all around were shrouded in cloud but the forecast promised a slow clearing during the course of the morning so I was optimistic. I threw a waterproof, a bit of food and some water in my daysack and headed off up the path.

This was the same track I used a couple of years ago with my Uncle on our approach to Bidean nam Bian via the nose of Beinn Fhada. The hills around were still shrouded in cloud but I was getting increasing views down Glen Coe.

A short distance up the track there is a clear branch. The right hand branch continues down the Lairig Gartain. I took the left hand option which very soon after turned into a long, steep series of rock steps that climbed quickly all the way up to the Bealach. The cloud was still quite persistent so without much of a pause I continued left and up to the summit of Stob Coire Raineach.

There was a good path all the way up the shattered rock terraces. With the place to myself I continued north for some distance to get views into Glen Coe and down Rannoch Moor. The clouds were beginning to shred into tatters but it was a slow process as I sat patiently munching on an apple.

I did get a view from time to time but after ten or so minutes decided to continue on my way. I dropped back down to the bealach and then continued south up the steep slope of the Buachaille’s unnamed middle top. There was a badly eroded section near the summit at 902m but otherwise there was very little to trouble me. As I climbed the conditions improved and there were glimpses of blue sky.

I now had a view down the rest of the ridge which was steadily clearing. Behind me there was a view back to Stob Coire Raineach as well as across the Lairig Gartain to Buachaille Etive Mor.

The rise to Stob Dubh was impressive, the culmination of a winding ridge that climbed steeply up at the very end.

It didn’t take too long to bimble along the ridge and then climb up the final rocky slopes to the summit.

I paused briefly at the summit cairn before continuing on south to get the much praised view down over Loch Etive. With the clouds now clearing nicely the view lived up to the expectations. This is one incredible viewpoint and I had it all to myself. I sat down here and had a third breakfast whilst enjoying the views. The cloud now was only really hanging around the Bidean massif, and even that was now clearing.

After this it was time to head back – I still had the long drive back to Aberdeen ahead of me. I reversed my outward route back along the ridge, passing through a small cloud and then dropping down the steps from the bealach. Here I met the first other punters of the day, all heading up towards the bealach.

I took my time going down, enjoying the views up to Bidean but before too long I was back at the much more crowded car park. It had taken me just over three hours for the two Munros. After a quick change of shoes I was back in the car and driving off. Rain continued to make Glen Coe and Rannoch Moor interesting and I stopped to get a quick shot of the Buachaille.

The drive home was broken up by delicious fish and chips in the Real Food Cafe at Tyndrum where it was hot and sunny. It definitely seemed like the east was getting the weather better today.

Time: 9 hours
Distance: 12.5 miles
Ascent: 6,000 ft
Munros: Sgur Eilde Mor, Binnein Beag, Binnein Mor, Na Gruagaichean
Weather: Early sun, later rain showers, cloud and cool temperatures
Route: Click here to view

There is nothing better than having a mere ten mile drive to get to the start of a walk, but the icing on this particular cake was that these particular ten miles were done in sunshine and with the stunning scenery on either side of Loch Leven to admire. From the hostel at Inchree it was only a twenty minute drive along the northern shore of the loch to the turning for Mamore Lodge. I drove carefully up the single track access road to the Lodge, arriving just after 8am where the only person awake to take my £3 parking fee was the housekeeper. It was a beautiful morning but I set off quickly as the midgies were already out in force and not being particularly friendly.

From the lodge a landrover track leads eastwards towards the hills. At the cottage a minor track diverts you for a short distance before you re-join the main track beyond the buildings. Then, after less than a kilometre, a small flattened rock indicates a side track which drops down into the gorge of the, crosses the stream and then brings you back up to the landrover track on the east side of the burn, having missed out a sizeable loop as the track climbs steadily up. There is a bench placed here which gives brilliant views over the Lodge to Loch Leven and the Pap of Glencoe.

As I followed the track which skirts south of the lower slopes of Na Gruagaichean cloud steadily built until the skies were grey and sombre. It hadn’t started raining yet though and I soon found the excellent stalkers path which leaves the landrover track and climbs up to the high Coire an Lochain with views extending out over Loch Eilde Mor and the mountains of Glen Coe beyond.

As I crested the wide coire I could see that my first target of the day, Sgurr Eilde Mor, was shrouded in cloud from around 800m. No matter though as I crossed the peaty bealach and ascended the bouldery southern shoulder.

A path occasionally appeared out of the shattered rocks but largely I found my own way up the steep slopes. Eventually a misty summit cairn came into sight. I got fleeting views down to Binnein Beag, though the higher Mamores were still holding onto the cloud well.

I continued north on the summit for a short distance before the clouds parted to show me a reasonable descent route. In the end the first part was steep and bouldery, traversing a snow patch and then down more rough boulders until I finally picked up a good track which took me back down to the north shore of the lochan and a crossroads.

As I descended the drizzle encountered on the summit had become persistent and heavy rain. In full waterproofs I stood surveying the gloomy panorama, wondering whether to continue or take a lower level route back to the car. In the end I decided to follow the good track north to Binnein Beag and at least ascend that hill before heading back.

The track here is excellent and got me very quickly up to the small lochan that sits below Binnein Beig. Again though views of the mountains itself were few and far between. I followed the track as it headed up the curving south-eastern ridge of the mountain, climbing again through boulders and with a short, scrambly section near the top. It wasn’t long before I was at the cairn and the summit shelter where I paused for a snack and a wait to see if a view would appear. It didn’t.

After ten or so minutes I headed back down to the lochan. Of course the mist slowly lifted and by the time I was back down the summit was clear.

This corresponded with a general brightening all around and though I initially took the track back towards the coire below Sgurr Eilde Mor and the easy route out, I then cut up the steep slopes of Binnein Mor’s central north-facing finger. This had a crest of crags which I kept to the right of and soon found myself on the ridge leading to the final awe-inspiring face of Binnein Mor. There were views back onto Binnein Beag, already looking very small, and to the north I could begin to see the Ben.

This was a very intimidating feature with layers of rock folded and contorted into impossible, near-vertical positions. I skirted around the base until I came across a slightly friendlier route of ascent.

This was up a very steep and damp gully that had occasional traces of a path. I didn’t look down much as I climbed and hands were used to clamber up several sections. It eventually brought me out just a few metres north of the summit of the mountain, a hugely impressive knife-edged crest that was strung with blocky rocks and boulders. I clambered along to the summit, revelling in the views all the along the sinuous crest of the Mamores range. To the north a snow-spattered Ben Nevis towered over Carn Mor Dearg.

From here my plan was now to follow the ridge as long as my deadline for a dinner appointment would allow. It remained cloud free as I went over Binnein Mor’s southern top but then clag came in again as I worked my way towards Na Gruagaichean. I passed a few people coming the other way on the ridge though it was getting late in the day.

I climbed up Na Gruagaichean in a cloud but only seconds after reaching the summit it blew through and I once again was treated to a spectacular view from this airy perch. I could now see the next bealach and the line of a track leading off it. Given the time this was going to be my descent route with the next two Munros to be left for another occasion. Behind me Binnein Mor came out of the cloud and I got some great views down over Loch Leven.

There is a very steep and notched gap between Na Gruagaichean and its north-west top. The final few feet are badly, badly eroded with gritty, damp red rock forming a delightfully slippy way down. The other side is better but still involved some scrabbling up very loose rocks. Nevertheless I was soon over and dropping down to the bealach where a cairn marks the way down.

I enjoyed the final walk along the grassy ridge with the central Mamores stretched out in front of me. I can’t wait to come back and explore this area some more. Behind me the Glen Coe hills were also becoming free of cloud.

As I descended off the ridge I had good views down towards Kinlochleven.

The track itself is excellent, cutting across the steep slopes in a long, steadily falling loop that does add on some distance to your day but makes from some very easy going.

I enjoyed the last views onto Am Bodach, made my way through the boggier lower section and was back at Mamore Lodge just over 9 hours after starting. A half hour drive got me back to Inchree and a well earned pint of Red Cuillin at the pub.

Distance: 15 miles
Time: 8hrs 30mins (including many stops)
Ascent: 1,977m (6,486ft)
Mountains: Beinn a’ Chroin (Munro 942m), An Caisteal (Munro 995m), Cruach Ardrain (Munro 1,046m), Beinn Tulaichean (Munro 946m)
Weather: Early clear blue skies with drifting cloud developing, warm out of the cold northerly wind
Route: Click to view

A slightly later start than usual had me slightly concerned that I was missing out on the early weather window promised by MWIS and the Met Office. Although it was slightly overcast in Aberdeen at 6:30am, as I drove down the A90 the cloud retreated from the coast until it hung over the Angus hills, leaving me in bright sunshine. Dundee and Perth were only just waking up as I sailed through and it was only the usual combination of tractors, road works and weekend drivers that slowed me down on the A82. Loch Earn looked spectacular and after that it was short blast south towards Stirling before turning off the main road and making for Balquidda.

Everybody was heading out of the village, presumably going for milk and a newspaper, but once on the single track road beyond the village it was quiet and I didn’t have any other vehicular problems. The drive along the winding road beside Loch Voil is beautiful and the sunshine and blue skies only emphasised the scenery. Towards the west end of the loch there were a few campers and when I arrived at the walkers car park at Inverlochlarig shortly after 9:20am there were already quite a few cars parked up. A couple of walkers left heading for the Stob Binnein path as I booted up.

The car park is excellent with ample space for 10-15 cars and a notice board with maps and information. Well done to this particular estate for being so welcoming to hillwalkers.

Once on the way I had my usual navigational difficulties getting through the farm areas. I should have just continued on the main farm track but got nervous and doubled back to follow the track signed for Beinn Tulaichean. As I left the farm I released this was talking me up the Larig glen so went through a gate and crossed open land to return to the road which runs alongside the river Larig!

Once this was sorted and I was comfortably on the correct track I settled down to enjoy the morning sunshine, the blue skies and the wonderful views in this peaceful glen. There were cows lower down, and as I drew level with Stob a’ Choin on the south bank of the river, sheep became more populous.

Away in the distance I could see a couple of walkers heading further down the road. After crossing the Ishag burn I left the road at NN412176 and struck out north across open hillside which soon steepened into the lower slopes of Beinn a’ Chroin.

From the road this is a steep hill with a dominant terrace of crags about 400m up. The map suggested that heading west would take me around them but as I climbed I started to pick out a line through the crags which would be more direct. I passed over a gate at around NN406179 and then climbed up the outfall of a gully.

Unfortunately as the gully narrowed it became apparent it wasn’t going to work out. I scrabbled around trying a few different ways but with wet rock and loose grass it was a no-go. I retreated and followed the crags around a short distance to the west. The next gully I came to was much wider and I was able to scramble up its upper reaches to emerge on top of the terracing. There were now views onto Beinn Tulaichean and behind me to the Corbett Stob a’ Chroin.

This was the first of three balconies that I moved up from one to the next, moving left and right through outcrops of stone until finally I came out just to the east of this rounded subsidiary peak. Across a narrow expanse of peaty ground was the final climb up onto the summit of Beinn a’ Chroin

To the north and east the views had opened up spectacularly. I could look up and down the long glen of the Larig and to the west Arrochar’s peaks could just be seen as well as Ben Lomond.

I eagerly crossed the bog and climbed quickly up the final steep slope to emerge at the summit of Beinn a’ Chroin, a small cairn on a large rocky tor marking the point.

The place was deserted. Out of the shadow of the hill I now felt the first effects of the chilling northerly wind. Once at the cairn I dropped down onto the sheltered southern side and paused for a few minutes to soak up the views and enjoy a spot of tea. I could see clearly my other targets for the day, An Caisteal to the south and Cruach Ardrain and Beinn Tulaichean to the east. I also lathered on some suncream.

From here I was on a track which wound its way along the numerous tops of Beinn a’ Chroin. The path is excellent, picking its way across steep sided gullies (some still holding a bit of snow) and over a number of cairn-marked summits. The views all around were brilliant – Ben Lomond and Arrochar to the west, and to the north all of the central Highlands basking in the sunshine.

I finally started to meet some people who were on the standard route coming over from An Caisteal. Everyone was very chatty and remarked on the weather.

Finally, I dropped down the flanks of Beinn a’ Chroin. The path here turns to cross the face of some crags, faint at first but then firmer until it turns back on itself to drop steeply down the crags. I lost it in some boulders but it was easy to make my way down to the bealach. As I descended I also got views onto the westerly Munro of Beinn Chabhair.

From here, the track is strong and can easily be followed all the way up to An Caisteal. Though initially steep, it soon broadens out onto a gentler ridge which leads up over a number of bumps to the flat summit of the mountain. I passed a few more people on my way up as they descended including three folk all dressed in red and a fair few people in shorts and t-shirts.

The views back onto Beinn a’ Chroin showed what a bumpy mountain it is.

Remarkably I had the summit to myself and after visiting the cairn found a sheltered spot to eat my lunch. The views out over Ben Lomond, Arrochar and what I think was Loch Long held me captivated.

Eventually I tore myself away and continued north, dropping off An Caisteal onto Twistin Hill. The path remains excellent and I followed it for some way until I had drawn level with the northern ridge of Cruach Ardrain on the far side of the Falloch. My plan here was to descend into the glen, cross the river and climb up to the ridge on the far side.

The slopes below the bealach, dropping down from NN376208 to NN388209 were delightful – springy grass and a shallow gradient that nevertheless got me down to the path besides the river very quickly.

I may have confused a few people returning from Beinn a’ Chorin on the book route by crossing the track, dropping to the river and picking my way across the boulders to the other side.

Here a faint track took me south around the bottom of the western arm of Meall Dhamh. As the track disappeared I climbed steeply up this shoulder, getting wary looks from sheep and deer. On the far side of the allt dropping down from Cruach Ardrain I spotted two walkers – in hindsight their route may have been more sensible. However, I persevered and eventually caught a sight of people moving along the ridge path. I had to climb all the way up to the summit of Meall Dhamh to avoid some final crags but this gave me great views up onto Cruach Ardrain.

Having done that off-track section I knew I could now relax and follow a decent path pretty much all the way back to the car. Cruach Ardrain is a hefty mountain from this northern side and the track veers around to the west before finally tackling the summit from the south.

A group of walkers descended and paused to play in one of the few remaining snow patches. I continued upwards, to find a crowded summit cairn.

One person kindly took my summit shot and then I retreated slightly to have a last mug of tea and enjoy the spectacular views. Eventually the people drifted off and I was left to enjoy the golden silence and the late afternoon light.

I now had a delightful finish to the day; a gentle bimble across to Beinn Tulaichean on a well worn track (overtaking the walking party) and enjoying the views back over to Beinn a’ Chroin and An Caisteal, and east to Ben More and Stob Binnein.

There is hardly any ascent up to the summit of Beinn Tulaichean where I stopped for a final break. Compared to its higher neighbours it doesn’t offer quite the same views but it was highly satisfying to look around at my whole route.

I then dropped off south, initially following a clear path which faded briefly as some crags appeared on the east side of the mountain. I dropped around to the west and found the track again.

This process was repeated a number of times though as I got lower I was able to roughly hold a line heading to the farm at Inverlochlarig. Eventually things levelled out and I hit the track dropping out of the Larig Glen.

This I followed back across the river, past the farm and back to the car, arriving just before 6pm.