Distance: 26 km
Ascent: 1000 m
Time: 7hrs 37mins
Munros: Tom Buidhe (957m), Tolmount (958m)
Weather: Early light rain giving way to sunshine, very strong winds on top
Route: Click to view

With twenty-one Stockets aboard the bus (after pick-ups at the Bridge of Dee and at Stonehaven) we made our way down the A90 to Glen Clova. Initial sunshine in Aberdeenshire soon gave way to less pleasant conditions into Angus with dark clouds sitting ominously over the hills and glens. After a break at Stracathro services we made our way through Kirriemuir and then out onto the narrow road to Clova.

With a coach it was slow going, particularly as half the glen seemed to be on its way out for the day. We disturbed several broods of partridges and were held up briefly by a herd of cattle, including one old but extremely large bull, that were being moved by a determined looking farmer’s wife.

It was around ten when we pulled up at the small quarry just before the car park in Glen Doll. There was low cloud over the nearby hills and a light drizzle was falling. Without much hesitation we were on our way, heading down the final stretch of road, past the car park, and then out on the first stretch of Jock’s Road.

Shortly after this we met a helpful Forestry Sign that said, “Jock’s Road Closed”. Luckily it turned out not to apply to the whole road, just a short stretch through the plantation. Thankfully we were able to bypass this by following a well signed diversion on the south bank of the White Water.

At this point a reasonably heavy rain was falling, but the trees kept us sheltered and it was a relaxing way to start the walk. The White Water chattered below us as we wound our way steadily up the glen. As we progressed scraps of blue sky began to appear above us and as we crossed the river to rejoin the main path we were in sunshine with the summits clearing.

After a brief break we tackled the main climb of the day: following Jock’s Road out of the head of Glen Doll. Some significant work has been done in the past on this track and it is of excellent quality, climbing to the right of the more precipitous cliffs below Craig Maud. It gave great views back down the glen and on to the heather clad slopes. As we climbed the clouds rolled back in and we were back under grey skies.

At the summit of the path we paused again, exploring Davey’s Howff and the memorial plaque to the five experienced hillwalkers who had died in tragic and mysterious circumstances on a crossing of Jock’s Road just after New Year in 1959.

Though there were still dark clouds about, the conditions seemed to be getting better. However, as we came out of the shelter of the glen we were quickly exposed to the high winds that had been confidently predicted by various weather services.

Once on the tops the excellent path dwindles somewhat until it became more of a muddy track, winding its way with less certainty along the course of the allt that flows back down towards Glen Doll. We followed this course for some time as the Munros of Tom Buidhe and Tolmount came in to view at the head of the stream. It became clear however that we had missed a turning and that Jock’s Road now lay some way above us, climbing the long ridge to Crow Craigies.

We climbed up the steep slopes to regain the track and then followed this until we got to the crags of Crow Craigies and the highest point of Jock’s Road. It was here, with views north and east to the Deeside Hills, as well as the much closer White Mounth Munros, including Broad Cairn and Lochnagar, that we paused for lunch.

After lunch we dropped back to the allt, crossed it by a convenient set of stones and then struck a course south and west up the slightly steeper eastern side of Tom Buidhe. As we climbed we could look back east to the Glen Doll hills which were still sitting under a heavy covering of cloud.

As we came out on to the summit of Tom Buidhe we were hit by the full force of the wind. Still, its presence had almost completely blown away the clouds and there were magnificent views in all directions. In the west was the dark mass of Glas Maol and the Glen Shee hills. Closer at hand was the Tolmount and the hills above Glen Callater.

In the north could be seen the high Cairngorms, from the cliffs of Braeriach to the granite tors on Beinn Mheadhoin. Looking south we could see the Perthshire hills retreating into a hazy distance. It was wonderful, despite the wind.

From Tom Buidhe we took the obvious track around the lip of the gentle corrie and followed it along to the summit of the neighbouring Munro, Tolmount. Now the wind was on our backs and propelled us easily up the last rocky climb to the cairn. We paused again at the top to admire the views. A few other people joined us and it was possible to see plenty of other figures out in the Munro-filled part of the world. Once at the summit it is important to continue slightly north to get the view of Loch Callater.

The Tolmount was the name of Jock’s Road in the days when it was a drover’s road across the hills. From the summit of the mountain we dropped back down to pick up the road itself as it descended steeply into Glen Callater.

The track is very vague at this point and it took a good bit of descending down steep, grassy slopes before we met anything at all well defined. There were fine views all around as we made our way down.

Eventually, as the gradient eased, we joined a well constructed track that followed the course of the Allt an Loch, a chattering burn that quickly grew in size as it wound its way through Glen Callater. The head if the glen is spectacular with the Tolmount dominating the centre alongside the hills further west which surround Loch Kander. These all look spectacular as they caught the afternoon light.

The road took a rollercoaster route of ups and downs as the river turned across the undulating valley floor. Sometimes the marshier sections were crossed by stretches of stepping stones. Eventually though the sides of the glen receded and the land flattened out into pools and reedy beds with the river now more languorous as it drifted into Loch Callater.

The track followed the eastern shore of the loch and continued to be excellent. There was now dramatic clouds pouring in from the south west. Occasional gaps would let sunshine in, lighting up the foreground vividly whilst the hills in the background remained dark and sombre.

Eventually, as the sun once again came out, we came to the lodge at the far end of the loch. A bothy next door provided ample bench seating for a last snack stop and a contemplation of the views back down the loch.

From here it was a simple case of following the land rover track down through the wild Glen Callater. Although the clouds returned and threatened rain we remained dry until we reached the pick up point at Auchallater beneath the dark heather-clad slopes of Morrone.

The coach took us back to Aberdeen by way of a couple of pints in the Fife Arms in Braemar. At first it was busy but soon the 6pm rush subsided and we all got served and found a seat. It was a tired group that headed back to the city but it had been a great day, made better by the fact that we had avoided most of the rain and got some wonderful views from these wild and isolated hills.

Distance: 28.8 km
Ascent: 1553 m
Time: 7hrs 37mins
Munros: Bynack More (1090m), Cairn Gorm (1245m)
Weather: Hot sunshine, light breeze
Route: Click to view

After what seemed like interminable weekends of rain, wind and general unpleasantness, yesterday’s weather was warm and sunny and so in the evening I quickly made plans to head into the mountains today. The weather forecast was particularly promising for the eastern side of the country so I checked out what I had still to climb amongst the Munros of the Cairngorms (quite a few in fact) and then checked out a couple of possible routes. With long summer days still around I decided that a route taking in both the out-of-the-way Bynack More, and the eponymous Cairn Gorm would work out well and saw that there was a track that cut down from the ski centre towards the Ryvoan pass allowing me to complete a satisying loop of the two. Soon after my bag was packed and I was ready for an early departure.

Sunday morning lived up to its bright promise, with unbroken blue skies above me as I drove out of Aberdeen. There was some cloud around as I passed over to Strathdon and from the viewing point past Corgarff I could see that the higher Cairngorms were holding on to a cap of clouds. No matter though as the forecast had promised improved conditions into the afternoon.

I drove along the quiet backroad through Nethy Bridge, along to Coylumbridge and then hit the tourist traffic on the main road up to the Cairn Gorm ski centre. Small sailing boats were already plying the still blue waters of Loch Morlich as I passed by it before the road climbed up to the lower ski centre car park. There were a few people up here admiring the view back down over Glen More, but no-one else was booting up for a walk.

Undeterred I made my preparations, only to discover that both sets of batteries for my GPS were virtually dead. It wasn’t that I was worried about navigation. I had a map and compass. I was worried about the loss of my track and the associated statistics (how sad!). Luckily, my phone came to the rescue and I soon had My Tracks up and running and recording a GPS track for me (no data loss, hurrah!).

From the ski centre car park I dropped down to the Allt Na Ciste, crossing it and turning to follow the track on its east bank. SOon after this a track forked off to the right and I followed this as it wound its way across gently rolling, heather clad land across to Lochan na Beinne which was beautifully still in the morning air. At just after 10am it was already a very hot day.

From the Lochan the track followed a boggy course below the lower slopes of Stac na h-lolaire. At some point I deviated away from the line of the track marked on the OS Map, though I was still on a clear route. This kept me above the wooded gully which I imagine would have been very boggy. Unfortunately the track I was on finally bent around to the west but petered out in a further gully where a reedy burn soaked both my feet. I continued along it as it went into the deeper section of woods and although I must have crossed it at some point, missed the track. Instead I broke through waist-high ferns to reach another gully which had been largely cleared of trees. Although it was steep I was able to pick my way carefully down it. In the shelter of the gully though it was hot, damp and very fly-infested.

I was glad, some time later, to reach the floor of Glen More where I immediately hit the excellent path that comes up from Glenmore Lodge. The going was much easier now and I soon arrived at the branch down to An Lochan Uaine (the green lochan) which I headed down to. No pictures can do justice to the incredible beauty of this piece of water.

In the shelter of both hills and thinning pine trees it more than lives up to its name, its glass-like surface mirroring the scenery. I sat by the water munching on a cereal bar and enjoying the tranquility of this idyllic spot. A few other walkers came down to explore its banks and so I eventually moved on, returning back to the track which now heads towards the Ryvoan Bothy.

Shortly before the bothy a Scottish RIghts of Way Society sign points a fork in the road. I took the right fork to Braemar as this path eventually leads to the Lairig an Laoigh, one of the passes through the high Cairngorms. The track is of excellent quality and in short order I was at the wide opening of Strath Nethy, crossing the River Nethy by a good quality footbridge.

On the far side the track branched off to the left to climb the long, gentle shoulder of An Lurg, a bump in the high, laregely featureless plataue whose high point is the summit of Bynack More.

At around 780m the main Lairig track is left as it turns to the east to contour around Bynack More and the Munro baggers track continues almost due south, passing over the 818m spot height from which you get your first true look at Bynack More sitting to the left of its smaller neighbour, Bynack Beg.

The path heads up the north ridge, very steeply at first but then flattening off slightly as it turns to the west side of the ridge to avoid the rocky crest. Rather than follow the track I stuck to the crest as much as posible, enjoying scrambling up the grippy granite.

I overtook a couple of folk toiling up the path and soon after that emerged amongst the summit boulders, the cairn some way to my south. Beyond it the sharp profile of Coire Sputan Dearg on Ben Macdui and the tors on Beinn Mheadhoin had come into view.

I passed by way of the large summit cairn, taking in the fantastic panorama that had opened up all around me. To the west Cairn Gorm had blown off its early cloud and now stoody dominating the immedaite scene. To the south the pass of the Lairig an Laigh could be seen, the various pools and lochans in it catching the high sun. To the south and east the long sloping sides of Beinn a’ Bhiuird and Ben Avon with its Tors showed off their bulk.

I sat up here for almost half an hour, munching on a sandwich or two and taking in the views under sunny skies. There was only the lightest of breezes and so a few insects had gathered up near the cairn which were somewhat irksome. I had a chat with chap who had been out walking and camping in the hills for almost a week. He had come through rain and high winds but had enjoyed the weekend sunshine and was now prepared for one last night, camped up on Bynack More, before heading back to civilisation.

After my lunch I dropped south from the summit to continue my loop. First of all my route took me down by the Barns of Bynack, a set of granite tors which sit just south of the summit.

After the Barns I dropped down and made my way slightly west to climb the unremarkable A’ Choinneach. This 1017m high bump is a Munro top but the legs hardly feel it and I only stopped briefly at the cairn to admire the view back to Bynack More before continuing on.

I was drawn by knowledge that the next view was one I had long sought: that of Loch Avon, the body of water truly at the heart of the Cairngorms. It’s dark green surface shimmers below the steep cliffs that make up Ben Macdui, Derry Cairngorm, Cairn Gorm and Beinn Mheadhoin, all Munros. I detoured out to a slight promontory whcih gave a fantastic view down the loch. Here I paused for another twenty or so minutes just enjoying the splendour of this wild and remote spot. I was already mentally noting a number of potential campsites that I’d like to use on a trip through these mountains.

After my break I rejoined the main track which winds down off A’ Choinneach, past several small pools with Cairn Gorm behind them, and down to the Saddle which marks the head of Strath Nethy. In poor weather this would provide a good escape route at this point but with the sun beating down I was ready to climb up to my second Munro of the day, Cairn Gorm.

A good track climbs up the right of the high cliffs which guard the summit of Cairn Gorm. It takes you up alongside Strath Nethy giving good views back to Bynack More and the eastern hills.

It isn’t the most direct of paths but does take you up a moderate slope that soon gains height. Eventually the path turned westward, following the course of a burn that came down from some of the last lingering snow patches of the year. Here I found a determined skier, repeatedly sliding down the short runs of hardened snow. They seemed to be enjoying themselves.

Meanwhile, the path was now heading for the Ptarmigan so I turned off it and struck up the final slopes, emerging on the Cairn Gorm plateau just a few hundred metres away from the summit and the weather station.

I made my way over to the weather station and then dropped slightly down the bouldery slope to get the view south to hidden Loch Etchachan and Ben Macdui. In the afternoon light it was a wonderful view.

After a pause here I returned to the summit to tag the cairn and check out the view west across Loch Morlich and beyond to where the Moray Firth would lie hidden in haze. It was then an easy walk on the well made track north along the plateau, passing the Maquis Well and soon encountering the ski equipment which make this mountain synonymous with Scottish winter sports.

I left the built up area and kept away from the Ptarmigan (where the funicular railway terminates), taking an offtrack route across the rolling plateau until I dropped down into Coire na Ciste. This steep gulley would lead me directly to the car park.

At first it was steep, unsteady ground but after some uncertainty I picked up a track lower down that soon became clear and well constructed. It skirted round and final outlier of Cairn Gorm and then descended to the car park and my car.

After a quick change out of my boots and a phone call home I was heading back, stopping briefly by Loch Morlich to get the view of the mountains that had been cloud covered earlier in the day. I stopped once more above Abernethy to get a final photo and then made the long drive back across the mountains to Aberdeen.

Looking back at my camping trip last weekend I’ve been checking out my weights and kit list to see how things worked out, what will be in the bag next time, what can be left behind and what I have still to purchase. My total base weight before adding food and water was just over 7kg. In total (though I didn’t weigh my full bag with food and water) I estimate that I carried in just under 8kg from the Linn of Dee. Looking at my GPS report this weight doesn’t seem to have hampered my level(ish) trail pace very much, although going uphill was a different matter. Still, it definitely wasn’t debilitating and I was able to cover 15 miles carrying the heavy bag which I am pleased with.

What I Took

The main items of camping equipment I took with me:

Osprey Talon 33 rucksack
Terra Nova Laser Competition Tent
PHD Minim 400 Down Sleeping Bag in Ultralite Spider Compression Sack
Thermarest Prolite 4 Regular Sleeping Mat
Optimus Crux Stove with fuel, Optimus Pot, Lid and Spork

My full kit list for the trip can be downloaded as a PDF by clicking this link.

Tent

The Laser Competition did the job perfectly. Although I hadn’t done a practice pitch for a long time the instructions sewn into the stuff sack were sufficiently detailed for me to get a reasonably descent set-up. I did short-cut a couple of steps which are shown in their pitching video but are not adequately described in the written instructions. Pitching is definitely something I need to work on though. Luckily the conditions were not at all testing on my trip – some light rain during the night and a very gentle breeze.

I could feel the breeze in the tent and so there was only minimal condensation on the inner of the fly in the morning. Next time I probably do need to attach the pole hood, just to be sure it wasn’t rain that had got in.

I found the size of the tent inner and porch to be perfect for me. The porch space easily swallowed all my kit and I had plenty of room in the tent.

Sleeping Bag and Mat

Both worked well throughout the night. I used a Rab silk sleeping bag liner inside my PHD Minim 400 bag and felt a good temperature, perhaps slightly on the warm side throughout the night (and I’m fairly sure I sleep cold). It was definitely a cold night (probably mid-to-low single figures) as I progressively had to get more of my body inside the bag as the night went on.

The mat was good though it didn’t completely protect me from a slightly rocky ground. Everyone last year was raving about the Neoair but I think I will persevere with the Prolite a little longer. If not, then this year’s ‘must have’ mat seems to be the Ether Elite.

I used a travel pillow with my fleece stuffed inside – it was a little on the small side but I will supplement this with additional clothing in the future.

Stove and cooking

I only used the stove to heat up some water for a mug of hot chocolate before bed. Once lit it did this well, boiling 200ml of water in less than 5 minutes as I played around with the gas. I think I’ll need to pick up a wind shield as even the light breeze I had was sufficient to blow the flame around significantly.

It took me a while to light using a Light My Fire flint and striker which, although it sparked well, didn’t seem to want to ignite the gas. Eventually it did, though I’m not sure what persuaded it. I will practice more with this at home before changing to a turbolighter or similar.

Distance: 37.15 km
Ascent: 1390 m
Time: 8hrs 10mins (excluding the camping bit!)
Munros: The Devil’s Point, Cairn Toul, The Angel’s Peak
Weather: Day 1, clear and warm, Day 2, early sunshine, cloud above 1100m, late warm and humid
Route: Click to view

At half-past six in the evening and with a boot full of gear I headed out of Aberdeen towards the sunny west. There were clouds about but the sun was shining and the air was warm as I drove through Braemar and out along the road to the Linn of Dee. The sunshine over the Dee was beautiful.

At just on 8:15pm I was booted up and heading into the woods away from the car park. It was my latest start for a hike but there was still plenty of light and I decided I could walk for about two hours before I would need to start looking about for a place to pitch the tent. This was going to be my first wild camp so I wanted to ensure I had sufficient light to get my tent sorted.

The walk along the Derry Road beside the quiet Lui Water was beautiful. The cloud formations were fantastic and at one point I was treated to a brief sundog. At Derry there was plenty of activity: tents, bikes, camp fires, football games, laughter and shouting. It was a busy place with various camps set up around the river and trees.

After Derry I followed the right of way around to Luibeg where I encountered more campers. After getting a brief toe-wetting at the Luibeg steps (to save the detour around to the bridge) I did my only serious ascent of the day, up and around the south shoulder of Carn a’ Mhaim.

As I rounded the corner the Devil’s Point came into view, and then behind it the bulk of Cairn Toul. The sky was now darkening as my watch showed the hour ticking over. It was 10pm.

I dropped into the Lairig Ghru and then, as the track headed towards the branch off to Corrour, headed down towards the River Dee to find a site for my tent. On a small flattened knoll, covered in sparse heather I found my spot. It was just up slope from the river but was flat and relatively rock free.

I got to work pitching the tent. Despite it being a while since I had practiced it went up smoothly and soon I had all the various tapes and cords and guys secured. The pitch wasn’t perfect but with a calm evening ahead I didn’t anticipate any problems.

Whilst setting up the tent the midgies had found me but a cooling breeze got up and drove them away. I set my stove up and made myself a nice hot cup of hot chocolate. With this in hand I watched the light change as the sun sank somewhere beyond Braeriach.

For my first night under canvas in a long, long time I slept fairly well, only waking up a couple of times during the night. Each time I had a peek out of the tent, first seeing the full moon had risen, and later that the north had maintained its cloudy state.

At 4:30am I finally got up to enjoy the still dawn. The glen was in the shade whilst the mountain tops were beginning to catch the first rays. I wanted to make the most of the clear weather so broke camp and was soon heading along the track to the Corrour branch. A rainbow appeared behind the Devil’s Point and a brief shower passed across the glen.

I headed towards the bothy, crossing the Dee via the metal footbridge. A single tent was outside the bothy but all was quiet. The path continued up into Coire Odhar. With my full pack on I was glad of the good track which rose in a series of zig-zags besides the chattering burn. Behind me the Lairig Ghru was beginning to fill with a suffused light.

At the bealach I dropped my bag behind a tussock and then, with a spring in my lightened step, headed up to the summit of the Devil’s Point. I reached the summit of the day’s first Munro just before 6am and had the pleasure of watching the sun light up the surrounding scenery. It was still and beautiful and definitely worth the hassle of lugging a tent around.

I picked out Beinn Bhrotain and Monadh Mor above Glen Geusachan. To the south along the line of the Tarf was Beinn a’Ghlo. North I could see along the high ridge to Cairn Toul and away east the sun was rising over Carn a’ Mhaim and Ben Macdui. It was simply stunning.

After this refreshing wake-up I returned to the bealach and then continued on the track to Cairn Toul. Unfortunately cloud had swept in from the west and soon I was in the mist, picking my way up a boulder field to the subsidiary top. It was then a case of following the ridge around the lip of a coire and ascending the final slope up to Cairn Toul’s misty cairn.

There were no views so I continued on, dropping off Cairn Toul to the col and then ascending the Angel’s Peak. As I dropped back down to around 1100m I came out of the mist and got a view of Lochan Uaine and the Lairig Ghru beyond.

Once at the summit of the Angel’s Peak, my third Munro of the day, I was once again in the mist. I explored the mountain’s north-east ridge and then sat about munching on a cereal bar and enjoying the silence and solemnity.

I returned to the bealach below the Devil’s Point by a more direct route, contouring below Cairn Toul and then dropping more directly from its southern top.

After picking up my bag I dropped down by my route of ascent and once again joined the Lairig Ghru route for the walk out.

The long road out was a re-run of the previous evenings walk (the misty weather didn’t make me want to take the longer Whitebridge route out) but was livened up by walking with the Stocket Hillwalking Club who had done the entire Lairig Ghru over from Coylumbirdge. There were also plenty of other groups of people heading into the Cairngorms, some with massive packs.

Back at the Linn of Dee there was a barbeque with the Stockets and then a quick drive back to Aberdeen for a good night’s sleep.

Distance: 20 miles
Ascent: 7,000ft
Time: 9hrs 10mins
Weather: Brilliant sunshine, strong, cold northerly wind
Route: Click to view

The day did not start well. I slept through my alarm and woke up at 7am with the wind blowing a hoolie outside and the cloud low and ominous over the grey city of Aberdeen. My hand left the warm comfort of the duvet only long enough to pick my laptop up. From under the covers I re-read the MWIS report for the North-West Highlands and watched the BBC Scotland weather report. Had last night’s reading of the same information been a dream? Would I really find the sun if I headed for the western hills? Well, apparently I would! The report still insisted there was an 80% chance of cloud free Munros and visibility improving over the course of the day.

Alright then. Out of bed, clothes, sandwiches, cereal, car, petrol, off and out of Aberdeen just before 8am.

Quiet roads got me quickly through to Inverness and just after 10 I was heading south towards Loch Ness. The only dampner during the course of the journey had been the low cloud, particularly over the Cairngorms as I passed Aviemore, and the occasional rain shower. Loch Ness arrived and just as I passed the first viewing point the clouds above me split and suddenly the dull grey water was shimmering in the morning sunshine. My spirits lifted as I turned off at Drumnadrochit and made my way through beautiful scenery down to the Glen Affric turning.

The jubilance lasted until I reached the turning. A traffic warden was rummaging in the boot of his car for a set of cones and in front of the car was a sign: “Highland Cross today – Glen Affric road closed 11am-4pm”. It was 10:55am.

Hazards on, out the car, “Good morning. Am I alright to take my car up the road?”, “You’re in luck, five minutes until I close it”, “Brilliant, thanks!”, hazards off, in gear, drive!

Slightly concerned for any early pacesetters coming towards me I cautiously made my way up the single track road which winds its way down this beautiful glen. The trees were a vibrant green in the sunshine and the waters of Loch Beinn a’ Mheadhoin sparkled a deep, deep blue. At the layby just before a bridge at GR there was a checkpoint for the Highland Cross and a sign saying “No cars beyond this point”. Luckily I don’t need to go any further as this was my start and end point for the day.

Out of the car and booted up with my light daypack on I set off up the Affric road munching on a brunch bar and marvelling at the contrast in weather compared to the eastern half of the country. I passed the Highland Cross paraphernalia and said “Good Morning!” to the marshals who are lounging around in the sunshine. The track runs alongside the River Affric, and the views beckoned me on with the promise of wild, beautiful mountains in what has to be one of the most stunning locations in the country.

Just before Affric Lodge I turned off the road onto a decent track that immediately climbs up the northern slopes of the glen. The views got better and better as my vantage point changed. I could now see the intimidating nose of Sgurr na Lapaich, my first target for the day and all the way down Loch Affric to the mountains east of Kintail. This is a stunning, magical place.

The track gained me height rapidly and then, as it turned a wide corner to head back east, I left it, finding my way across the boggy land to the east of Sgurr na Lapaich. A track was occasionally found though it seemed to be more frequented by deer then humans. I saw a medium sized stag watching me as I climbed up the course of a stream.

As I approached it, Sgurr na Lapaich changed shape and I began to see a way up through its defences. I picked up its curving south-eastern ridge and soon a track was found, this one more assured, that climbed steeply up the side of the mountain between large slabs of angled rock. This track is of excellent quality and soon had me high above the glen with the views developing all the time.

I reached the cairn and was immediately hit by a strong northerly wind which forced an additional layer on despite the hot June sunshine. The view though was magnificent. I could see the whole of my day mapped out in front of me and to the west peak upon peak faded into a hazy distance. To the south the familiar fin of Ben Nevis could be seen rising above the rest of the Grey Corries range and closer by were the mountains of Glen Shiel.

It was now a matter of following the ridge along to the first Munro of the day, Mam Sodhail. The ridge is straight-forward with a clear track appearing shortly after leaving the summit. It runs along beside the drop of the strange landslip which scars the north side of Sgurr na Lapaich. I enjoyed the ever developing views up to Mam Sodhail, Carn Eige and the continuation of that mountain’s eastern ridge with its pinnacles clearly on display.

I passed a couple of people coming towards me and soon found myself winding up the east ridge of Mam Sodhail, soon emerging on the summit to find a giant cairn/shelter. I scrambled up it to the top and admired the vista. To the north the Coulin and Torridon hills could be seen and away west was a hazy hint of the Cuillins on Skye. Beinn Sgritheall was the dominant feature to the south-west.

It was a brilliant place to sit, in the shelter of the cairn, basking in the sunshine and eating a sandwich. As I was enjoying it a chap came up from the west – he had taken the boat up Mullardoch and was now (having already bagged An Socach) heading along the ridge. He left and I followed soon after dropping down the steep slopes to the col with Carn Eige. The Lochan Uaine far below looked alpine, particularly with the snow still cornicing around the lip of the corrie.

As the track now heads up Carn Eige I turned off and chose a descending line along a faint track that contoured around Carn Eige to the low bealach with Beinn Fionndlaidh. The track comes and gos but eventually becomes more sure of itself. It was rough ground, the going much improved by the views up the glen to Sgurr nan Creathamnas and down to the head of Loch Mullardoch. After the bealach the track is much clearer and heads straight up the reasonably gentle southern slopes of Beinn Fionndlaidhe.

I reached the summit cairn and again the views were glorious. The dark surface of Loch Mullardoch below the massive hills to the north of Glen Cannich. To the west Skye was gradually becoming more distinct, and I could see the bridge against the waters of Loch Alsh. I also looked back towards Carn Eige sitting above another dark lochan.

The conditions were perfect up there and on the sheltered side and I lay back sunbathing for half an hour, eating a little and chatting with a couple of guys who arrived a short time after me.

From Beinn Fionndlaidh I traced my steps back to the bealach and then ascended the 300m or so up to the summit of Carn Eige. The climb was done remarkably quickly and I was soon enough at the trig point. The visibility was improving as the day progressed and by this time Ben Nevis and the Grey Corries were clearly seen without their earlier covering of haze.

Now I had the splendid Affric ridge ahead of me, sinuous and lumpy with plenty of interest even before I got to the next Munro of Tom a Choineach. The first section was wide and gentle but then as it curved around to the south the pinnacles above Loch a’ Choire Dhomhain came into view. They looked like fun!

I tackled the first one head on, climbing up a groove and then around an exposed corner onto the first summit. From here I dropped down to a notch between it and the second pinnacle. Here I became a bit more circumspect. The route looked to be around to the right side and then up a string of needles that stuck out from the rock. The drop below was brutal looking. After a couple of steps along I lost my nerve and backtracked to the notch. From here I dropped to the avoiding path and followed it around the south side of the pinnacle. Once around I climbed back along the pinnacle to survey the route. It turned out I had only been one or two very exposed moves away from safety and will definitely give this section a go next time. The third pinnacle was much less intimidating – just a blocky scramble and then a careful walk along to rejoin the path. Overall these offer an interesting section of scrambling with plenty of foot and hand holds, secure rock and an easy way of getting down to the path at two points. I was pleased with having negotiated the first and third pinnacles and the adventure along the second one had certainly got the heart racing with plenty of exposure!

After the excitement of the pinnacles I climbed up to Carn Eige’s most eastern top which then dropped rapidly down to a low col. There was a dusty track but it was steep and slidy so I took my time getting down. As I descended, far below I could see a group of people have an animated discussion. They finally left the col and began contouring around below me across a steep boulder field heading for the crags below An Leth-creag. What they were doing exactly I am not sure as I soon lost sight of them in the dark shadow of the cliffs.

Heading away from the col I followed the continuation of the ridge along as it climbed up towards the next high point, enjoying the views across to the Mullardoch hills and the changing character of the mountains I had already crossed as the light changed with the slowly sinking sun.

The west side of Tom a’ Choineach is a fairly featureless dome with a faint track moving up through rocky ground. Eventually I reached the summit cairn where I paused only briefly – my final Munro of the day Toll Creagach looked an awful long way off and I wanted to get the final re-ascent over and done with.

There was another steep descent down the west ridge of Tom a’ Choineach before reaching the bealach and the very tempting path downwards. Still, it was a fine evening (albeit getting chilly with the reduced power of the sun and persistent wind) and so I pressed on, covering the last couple of kms up steadily steepening slopes to the summit of the day’s final Munro.

This was another rounded summit with a feeling of wilderness about despite it being the closest to the car. I sat for a fifteen minutes or so sheltered from the cold wind, enjoying the views out west over the wonderful mountain ranges. The sun was still two or three hours from setting but the quality of light was beautiful.

Reluctantly I turned away from the high mountains and headed south, following the broad flank of the mountain which was made up of a series of rocky terraces interspersed with springy grass. I made rapid progress until I hit the boggier terrain as the river approached. As I got lower I found a faint path that ran just to the left of the Allt cxx which brought me down a gentle slope to the river itself. Here I only had a few meters of bog until I picked up the surfaced track shown on the map.

I saw a tent here and was very jealous of their idyllic campsite. Out of the cooling breeze the evening sunshine was delightful and now I made excellent progress down the track. The mountains, silhouetted against the sun, fell into the distance behind me and then I was into the sparse wood with the blue waters of Loch Beinn a’ Mheadhoin ahead of me.

The track dropped gently down the final slopes and emerged just a few yards from my car. It had been an astonishingly good day. Long, tiring but the rewards far outweighed the effort I had put in. it was a deeply satisfying day and one that easily tops the highlights of my relatively short hillwalking career.

And then they found me.

I tore the boots off my feet, threw my bag in the boot, pulled on my trainers and hurriedly got into the car. Though Glen Affric had been kind to me, the hoard of midges were not so benevolent. With the windows down and my music playing loud I drove rapidly back along the glen road, heading for the cloudy east lands and leaving in my wake the glow of a summer evening and a trail of bewildered insects.

My satnav took me a different way home so I enjoyed a brief leg stretch along the Beauly Firth and some time later (close to midnight in fact, with a brightness still filling the northern sky) arrived back in Aberdeen.

Distance: 28.2km
Ascent: 1772m
Time: 7hrs 40mins
Weather: Sunshine with cloud building later, warm but breezy
Route: Click to view

I had a late start today but the forecast was good and with the summer well on its way daylight was never going to be an issue. I started walking at 11:20 from the excellent walkers car park at Dalrigh. I dropped down to the West Highland Way and followed this as it passes the farm buildings. It was lovely walking, with the sun occasionally coming out, a slight breeze keeping the midges away, and a good clear track to the follow. As the WHW turned away to Tyndrum I continued on the landrover track that left the woods and continued west along the course of the Cononish.

As I advanced the views opened out, initially showing the Corbett Ben Chuirn with the gold mine workings on its eastern side, and then the flanks of Ben Oss. Finally, after half hours walking around a corner in the glen I caught my first sight of the mighty Ben Lui.

After passing Cononish farm the track rises more steeply around the lower slopes of Beinn Chuirn. This gave the legs an opportunity to warm up as well as a good view of the col between Ben Lui and Ben Oss and some of the route I would be following later in the day. I also got a more detailed view of Ben Lui as I got closer, its great northern corrie still holding some snow in its gullies and the twin horns of Stob Garbh and Stob an Tighe Aird guarding the summit like a pair of soldiers.

Soon the track dropped down to cross the Cononish, ending in a turning area and a sheep pen. At this point, and for no other reason than it was a pleasant day and I was feeling up for a challenge, I crossed the river and then turned off the clear track up to Coire Gaothach and instead contoured around the base of Stob Garbh and the usual route up to the mountain’s north-east ridge. This side is comprised of a series of shattered rock terraces which looked too steep for scrambling. Instead I found a grassy rake that ran up below the crags and onto a spur of the north-east ridge. Above the rake I then climbed and scrambled up steep grassy slopes, windy across the face a couple of times to avoid crags before emerging just below the north lochan (which is shown on the map).

I climbed up to Stob Garbh and immediately saw where the Coire Gaothach track climbs up to join the north-east ridge. I would recommend following that approach to save climbing up the featureless and steep slopes further to the north. Despite the slight deviation I was now on easy ground, following the good track up to Ben Lui’s summit. There were now plenty of people around, mainly descending at this time of the day. I went over the north top (marked by a cairn) and then scrambled along the east side of the summit ridge to get to the very busy summit itself.

After admiring the views here I dropped off Ben Lui down the clear track which runs south-west towards Beinn a’ Chleibh.

After 150m the gradient eases and from here the day became a more gentle bimble. I passed a couple of parties as I dropped down to the bealach and then ascended the short distance to the top of Beinn a’ Chleibh.

From the summit cairn I continued some distance to the west to get a better view over Ben Cruachan and Loch Awe which sparkled in the sunshine. It also gives a good perspective on Ben Lui.

Then it was a return to the bealach and up a short distance before turning to the right on a faint track which gently rose to contour around and under Ben Lui’s summit slopes. This saves a lot of reascending. The terrain is fairly easy going, largely grassy slopes with just a few rocky gullies to cross. I did end up slightly higher than I needed to be, mainly because I was tempted to climb up onto the ridge to see what the view was like. In the end though I picked up a clear track which climbed onto the South-east ridge of Ben Lui as it curved to the south.

After crossing the bealach I picked up a track which made the gently rising ascent of Ben Oss. This gave an interesting perspective on Ben Lui as well as views opening up down Loch Lomond and Loch Fyne further west.

The final ascent was steeply up through rocky terrain with some broken crags. Unfortunately here my left trainer came loose and I found that the lace had snapped. I had to effect a temporary repair which luckily lasted until the end of the walk. The long climb up to the summit of Ben Oss was rewarded by stunning views back to Ben Lui and on over Loch Oss to Beinn Dubhchraig.

I then dropped off Ben Oss and under cloudier skies crossed the bealach and began the climb up to Beinn Dubhchraig.

Again there was an excellent track here and the views around, back down Glen Cononish and over to Ben Lomond were superb.

The afternoon had faded into evening as I reached the cairn on top of Beinn Dubhchraig, my fourth Munro of the day. There was now time to relax, sitting on the grassy summit looking down over Loch Lomond and the brooding light further south.

After my break I then dropped off the summit and contoured around and down steep, occasionally rocky slopes to eventually meet up with the baggers path which ascends up besides the Allt Coire Dubhchraig. Once on this the going was excellent with only a few boggy and eroded sections. The evening sunshine was lighting up the hills above the Bridge of Orchy and further east I could see Ben Challum.

Eventually the track descended into the pleasant woodland and although warned of more bog I only really came across a couple of very bad sections. The majority of it was easily avoided. As I came back down to the River Cononish I had to cross the River Fillan by way of a rickety bridge. Then it was a case of picking my way across a marshy field to join the landrover track which would take me back to the car at Dalrigh.

A great day out with plenty of interest both in terms of the route and the scenery on offer. In particular the views over Loch Awe and later Loch Lomond were stunning.

Time: 3hrs 8 mins
Distance: 8.79km
Ascent: 920m
Munros: Stob Coire Raineach (925m), Stob Dubh (958m)
Weather: Early cloud and mist, clearing with sunshine later
Route: Click to view

I wanted something short to round out my weekend in Glen Coe and after perusing a few reports and the maps, settled on the “wee Buchaille” or Buachaille Etive Beag as a good target. There were rumours of a very boggy approach but I am pleased to report that the NTS have completed their pathwork in this area and there is now a brilliant approach path and staircase all the way up the mountain. This now has to be one of the easiest and most approachable Munros for all abilities. It was so good that I made it up and down in just a shade over three hours and didn’t see anyone until I was on my way back down! This was great as it gave me two empty summits.

The walk starts from the large parking place just off the A82. I was the first car there at about 8:30am. The tops all around were shrouded in cloud but the forecast promised a slow clearing during the course of the morning so I was optimistic. I threw a waterproof, a bit of food and some water in my daysack and headed off up the path.

This was the same track I used a couple of years ago with my Uncle on our approach to Bidean nam Bian via the nose of Beinn Fhada. The hills around were still shrouded in cloud but I was getting increasing views down Glen Coe.

A short distance up the track there is a clear branch. The right hand branch continues down the Lairig Gartain. I took the left hand option which very soon after turned into a long, steep series of rock steps that climbed quickly all the way up to the Bealach. The cloud was still quite persistent so without much of a pause I continued left and up to the summit of Stob Coire Raineach.

There was a good path all the way up the shattered rock terraces. With the place to myself I continued north for some distance to get views into Glen Coe and down Rannoch Moor. The clouds were beginning to shred into tatters but it was a slow process as I sat patiently munching on an apple.

I did get a view from time to time but after ten or so minutes decided to continue on my way. I dropped back down to the bealach and then continued south up the steep slope of the Buachaille’s unnamed middle top. There was a badly eroded section near the summit at 902m but otherwise there was very little to trouble me. As I climbed the conditions improved and there were glimpses of blue sky.

I now had a view down the rest of the ridge which was steadily clearing. Behind me there was a view back to Stob Coire Raineach as well as across the Lairig Gartain to Buachaille Etive Mor.

The rise to Stob Dubh was impressive, the culmination of a winding ridge that climbed steeply up at the very end.

It didn’t take too long to bimble along the ridge and then climb up the final rocky slopes to the summit.

I paused briefly at the summit cairn before continuing on south to get the much praised view down over Loch Etive. With the clouds now clearing nicely the view lived up to the expectations. This is one incredible viewpoint and I had it all to myself. I sat down here and had a third breakfast whilst enjoying the views. The cloud now was only really hanging around the Bidean massif, and even that was now clearing.

After this it was time to head back – I still had the long drive back to Aberdeen ahead of me. I reversed my outward route back along the ridge, passing through a small cloud and then dropping down the steps from the bealach. Here I met the first other punters of the day, all heading up towards the bealach.

I took my time going down, enjoying the views up to Bidean but before too long I was back at the much more crowded car park. It had taken me just over three hours for the two Munros. After a quick change of shoes I was back in the car and driving off. Rain continued to make Glen Coe and Rannoch Moor interesting and I stopped to get a quick shot of the Buachaille.

The drive home was broken up by delicious fish and chips in the Real Food Cafe at Tyndrum where it was hot and sunny. It definitely seemed like the east was getting the weather better today.

Time: 9 hours
Distance: 12.5 miles
Ascent: 6,000 ft
Munros: Sgur Eilde Mor, Binnein Beag, Binnein Mor, Na Gruagaichean
Weather: Early sun, later rain showers, cloud and cool temperatures
Route: Click here to view

There is nothing better than having a mere ten mile drive to get to the start of a walk, but the icing on this particular cake was that these particular ten miles were done in sunshine and with the stunning scenery on either side of Loch Leven to admire. From the hostel at Inchree it was only a twenty minute drive along the northern shore of the loch to the turning for Mamore Lodge. I drove carefully up the single track access road to the Lodge, arriving just after 8am where the only person awake to take my £3 parking fee was the housekeeper. It was a beautiful morning but I set off quickly as the midgies were already out in force and not being particularly friendly.

From the lodge a landrover track leads eastwards towards the hills. At the cottage a minor track diverts you for a short distance before you re-join the main track beyond the buildings. Then, after less than a kilometre, a small flattened rock indicates a side track which drops down into the gorge of the, crosses the stream and then brings you back up to the landrover track on the east side of the burn, having missed out a sizeable loop as the track climbs steadily up. There is a bench placed here which gives brilliant views over the Lodge to Loch Leven and the Pap of Glencoe.

As I followed the track which skirts south of the lower slopes of Na Gruagaichean cloud steadily built until the skies were grey and sombre. It hadn’t started raining yet though and I soon found the excellent stalkers path which leaves the landrover track and climbs up to the high Coire an Lochain with views extending out over Loch Eilde Mor and the mountains of Glen Coe beyond.

As I crested the wide coire I could see that my first target of the day, Sgurr Eilde Mor, was shrouded in cloud from around 800m. No matter though as I crossed the peaty bealach and ascended the bouldery southern shoulder.

A path occasionally appeared out of the shattered rocks but largely I found my own way up the steep slopes. Eventually a misty summit cairn came into sight. I got fleeting views down to Binnein Beag, though the higher Mamores were still holding onto the cloud well.

I continued north on the summit for a short distance before the clouds parted to show me a reasonable descent route. In the end the first part was steep and bouldery, traversing a snow patch and then down more rough boulders until I finally picked up a good track which took me back down to the north shore of the lochan and a crossroads.

As I descended the drizzle encountered on the summit had become persistent and heavy rain. In full waterproofs I stood surveying the gloomy panorama, wondering whether to continue or take a lower level route back to the car. In the end I decided to follow the good track north to Binnein Beag and at least ascend that hill before heading back.

The track here is excellent and got me very quickly up to the small lochan that sits below Binnein Beig. Again though views of the mountains itself were few and far between. I followed the track as it headed up the curving south-eastern ridge of the mountain, climbing again through boulders and with a short, scrambly section near the top. It wasn’t long before I was at the cairn and the summit shelter where I paused for a snack and a wait to see if a view would appear. It didn’t.

After ten or so minutes I headed back down to the lochan. Of course the mist slowly lifted and by the time I was back down the summit was clear.

This corresponded with a general brightening all around and though I initially took the track back towards the coire below Sgurr Eilde Mor and the easy route out, I then cut up the steep slopes of Binnein Mor’s central north-facing finger. This had a crest of crags which I kept to the right of and soon found myself on the ridge leading to the final awe-inspiring face of Binnein Mor. There were views back onto Binnein Beag, already looking very small, and to the north I could begin to see the Ben.

This was a very intimidating feature with layers of rock folded and contorted into impossible, near-vertical positions. I skirted around the base until I came across a slightly friendlier route of ascent.

This was up a very steep and damp gully that had occasional traces of a path. I didn’t look down much as I climbed and hands were used to clamber up several sections. It eventually brought me out just a few metres north of the summit of the mountain, a hugely impressive knife-edged crest that was strung with blocky rocks and boulders. I clambered along to the summit, revelling in the views all the along the sinuous crest of the Mamores range. To the north a snow-spattered Ben Nevis towered over Carn Mor Dearg.

From here my plan was now to follow the ridge as long as my deadline for a dinner appointment would allow. It remained cloud free as I went over Binnein Mor’s southern top but then clag came in again as I worked my way towards Na Gruagaichean. I passed a few people coming the other way on the ridge though it was getting late in the day.

I climbed up Na Gruagaichean in a cloud but only seconds after reaching the summit it blew through and I once again was treated to a spectacular view from this airy perch. I could now see the next bealach and the line of a track leading off it. Given the time this was going to be my descent route with the next two Munros to be left for another occasion. Behind me Binnein Mor came out of the cloud and I got some great views down over Loch Leven.

There is a very steep and notched gap between Na Gruagaichean and its north-west top. The final few feet are badly, badly eroded with gritty, damp red rock forming a delightfully slippy way down. The other side is better but still involved some scrabbling up very loose rocks. Nevertheless I was soon over and dropping down to the bealach where a cairn marks the way down.

I enjoyed the final walk along the grassy ridge with the central Mamores stretched out in front of me. I can’t wait to come back and explore this area some more. Behind me the Glen Coe hills were also becoming free of cloud.

As I descended off the ridge I had good views down towards Kinlochleven.

The track itself is excellent, cutting across the steep slopes in a long, steadily falling loop that does add on some distance to your day but makes from some very easy going.

I enjoyed the last views onto Am Bodach, made my way through the boggier lower section and was back at Mamore Lodge just over 9 hours after starting. A half hour drive got me back to Inchree and a well earned pint of Red Cuillin at the pub.

Distance: 15 miles
Time: 8hrs 30mins (including many stops)
Ascent: 1,977m (6,486ft)
Mountains: Beinn a’ Chroin (Munro 942m), An Caisteal (Munro 995m), Cruach Ardrain (Munro 1,046m), Beinn Tulaichean (Munro 946m)
Weather: Early clear blue skies with drifting cloud developing, warm out of the cold northerly wind
Route: Click to view

A slightly later start than usual had me slightly concerned that I was missing out on the early weather window promised by MWIS and the Met Office. Although it was slightly overcast in Aberdeen at 6:30am, as I drove down the A90 the cloud retreated from the coast until it hung over the Angus hills, leaving me in bright sunshine. Dundee and Perth were only just waking up as I sailed through and it was only the usual combination of tractors, road works and weekend drivers that slowed me down on the A82. Loch Earn looked spectacular and after that it was short blast south towards Stirling before turning off the main road and making for Balquidda.

Everybody was heading out of the village, presumably going for milk and a newspaper, but once on the single track road beyond the village it was quiet and I didn’t have any other vehicular problems. The drive along the winding road beside Loch Voil is beautiful and the sunshine and blue skies only emphasised the scenery. Towards the west end of the loch there were a few campers and when I arrived at the walkers car park at Inverlochlarig shortly after 9:20am there were already quite a few cars parked up. A couple of walkers left heading for the Stob Binnein path as I booted up.

The car park is excellent with ample space for 10-15 cars and a notice board with maps and information. Well done to this particular estate for being so welcoming to hillwalkers.

Once on the way I had my usual navigational difficulties getting through the farm areas. I should have just continued on the main farm track but got nervous and doubled back to follow the track signed for Beinn Tulaichean. As I left the farm I released this was talking me up the Larig glen so went through a gate and crossed open land to return to the road which runs alongside the river Larig!

Once this was sorted and I was comfortably on the correct track I settled down to enjoy the morning sunshine, the blue skies and the wonderful views in this peaceful glen. There were cows lower down, and as I drew level with Stob a’ Choin on the south bank of the river, sheep became more populous.

Away in the distance I could see a couple of walkers heading further down the road. After crossing the Ishag burn I left the road at NN412176 and struck out north across open hillside which soon steepened into the lower slopes of Beinn a’ Chroin.

From the road this is a steep hill with a dominant terrace of crags about 400m up. The map suggested that heading west would take me around them but as I climbed I started to pick out a line through the crags which would be more direct. I passed over a gate at around NN406179 and then climbed up the outfall of a gully.

Unfortunately as the gully narrowed it became apparent it wasn’t going to work out. I scrabbled around trying a few different ways but with wet rock and loose grass it was a no-go. I retreated and followed the crags around a short distance to the west. The next gully I came to was much wider and I was able to scramble up its upper reaches to emerge on top of the terracing. There were now views onto Beinn Tulaichean and behind me to the Corbett Stob a’ Chroin.

This was the first of three balconies that I moved up from one to the next, moving left and right through outcrops of stone until finally I came out just to the east of this rounded subsidiary peak. Across a narrow expanse of peaty ground was the final climb up onto the summit of Beinn a’ Chroin

To the north and east the views had opened up spectacularly. I could look up and down the long glen of the Larig and to the west Arrochar’s peaks could just be seen as well as Ben Lomond.

I eagerly crossed the bog and climbed quickly up the final steep slope to emerge at the summit of Beinn a’ Chroin, a small cairn on a large rocky tor marking the point.

The place was deserted. Out of the shadow of the hill I now felt the first effects of the chilling northerly wind. Once at the cairn I dropped down onto the sheltered southern side and paused for a few minutes to soak up the views and enjoy a spot of tea. I could see clearly my other targets for the day, An Caisteal to the south and Cruach Ardrain and Beinn Tulaichean to the east. I also lathered on some suncream.

From here I was on a track which wound its way along the numerous tops of Beinn a’ Chroin. The path is excellent, picking its way across steep sided gullies (some still holding a bit of snow) and over a number of cairn-marked summits. The views all around were brilliant – Ben Lomond and Arrochar to the west, and to the north all of the central Highlands basking in the sunshine.

I finally started to meet some people who were on the standard route coming over from An Caisteal. Everyone was very chatty and remarked on the weather.

Finally, I dropped down the flanks of Beinn a’ Chroin. The path here turns to cross the face of some crags, faint at first but then firmer until it turns back on itself to drop steeply down the crags. I lost it in some boulders but it was easy to make my way down to the bealach. As I descended I also got views onto the westerly Munro of Beinn Chabhair.

From here, the track is strong and can easily be followed all the way up to An Caisteal. Though initially steep, it soon broadens out onto a gentler ridge which leads up over a number of bumps to the flat summit of the mountain. I passed a few more people on my way up as they descended including three folk all dressed in red and a fair few people in shorts and t-shirts.

The views back onto Beinn a’ Chroin showed what a bumpy mountain it is.

Remarkably I had the summit to myself and after visiting the cairn found a sheltered spot to eat my lunch. The views out over Ben Lomond, Arrochar and what I think was Loch Long held me captivated.

Eventually I tore myself away and continued north, dropping off An Caisteal onto Twistin Hill. The path remains excellent and I followed it for some way until I had drawn level with the northern ridge of Cruach Ardrain on the far side of the Falloch. My plan here was to descend into the glen, cross the river and climb up to the ridge on the far side.

The slopes below the bealach, dropping down from NN376208 to NN388209 were delightful – springy grass and a shallow gradient that nevertheless got me down to the path besides the river very quickly.

I may have confused a few people returning from Beinn a’ Chorin on the book route by crossing the track, dropping to the river and picking my way across the boulders to the other side.

Here a faint track took me south around the bottom of the western arm of Meall Dhamh. As the track disappeared I climbed steeply up this shoulder, getting wary looks from sheep and deer. On the far side of the allt dropping down from Cruach Ardrain I spotted two walkers – in hindsight their route may have been more sensible. However, I persevered and eventually caught a sight of people moving along the ridge path. I had to climb all the way up to the summit of Meall Dhamh to avoid some final crags but this gave me great views up onto Cruach Ardrain.

Having done that off-track section I knew I could now relax and follow a decent path pretty much all the way back to the car. Cruach Ardrain is a hefty mountain from this northern side and the track veers around to the west before finally tackling the summit from the south.

A group of walkers descended and paused to play in one of the few remaining snow patches. I continued upwards, to find a crowded summit cairn.

One person kindly took my summit shot and then I retreated slightly to have a last mug of tea and enjoy the spectacular views. Eventually the people drifted off and I was left to enjoy the golden silence and the late afternoon light.

I now had a delightful finish to the day; a gentle bimble across to Beinn Tulaichean on a well worn track (overtaking the walking party) and enjoying the views back over to Beinn a’ Chroin and An Caisteal, and east to Ben More and Stob Binnein.

There is hardly any ascent up to the summit of Beinn Tulaichean where I stopped for a final break. Compared to its higher neighbours it doesn’t offer quite the same views but it was highly satisfying to look around at my whole route.

I then dropped off south, initially following a clear path which faded briefly as some crags appeared on the east side of the mountain. I dropped around to the west and found the track again.

This process was repeated a number of times though as I got lower I was able to roughly hold a line heading to the farm at Inverlochlarig. Eventually things levelled out and I hit the track dropping out of the Larig Glen.

This I followed back across the river, past the farm and back to the car, arriving just before 6pm.

Distance: 15 miles
Time: 8 hours
Ascent: 5,600ft
Hills: Cnap Cruinn (Graham, 742m), Stob a’ Choire Mheadhoin (Munro, 1106m), Stob Coire Easain (Munro, 1115m)
Weather: Hazy sunshine, clearer early afternoon, very strong Southerly wind
Route: Click here to view

With MWIS promising brighter skies by early afternoon following a damp start I decided to use this as an excuse to make the long journey across country to Glen Spean in Lochaber. At Spean Bridge I turned off the main Fort William road and drove up the narrow road to Corriechoille. Beyond the farm the road is rough but didn’t pose any problems for my Fiesta. I went through the first gate and then parked at the area just in front of the second locked gate.

By 9:30am I was booted up and climbing the reasonably steep track up through the remains of a wood. It was sad to see that the majority of the trees have been felled in this area. Hopefully there will be some restoration work as it makes for a particularly soulless beginning and end to the day. As I climbed I thought I spotted someone watching me from up the slope. It was an uneasy feeling but as I got closer I discovered it was a wood carving…! After that encounter, and with heart now racing at maximum speed, I was up the hill in no time. The Corbett Cruach Innse came into view as I dropped down and crossed the river by way of a sturdy bridge.

At about 269771 I left the track and climbed up greasy slopes to the bealach below Cruach Innse. The views up onto the eastern end of the Grey Corries were marred only by the insistently grey skies.

The air was incredibly hazy so the views weren’t anything special as I topped the bealach. I dropped down to the Allt Beinn Chlianaig which runs between the Innses and the long hill called Cnap Cruinn. Out of the shelter of Cruach Innse I was buffeted by a strong southerly wind which would be my nemesis for the first half of the day.

I crossed the stream at 284776, picking my way across the rocks, and then headed up heather-clad slopes to the northern top of Cnap Cruinn, marked Beinn Chlianaig on the map. This would have been a good vantage point east and west down Glen Spean and up towards Laggan but for the haze. I took a few moments sheltering from the wind to have a snack and then turned south, into the wind and heading for the Graham’s southern, higher top.

The terrain was lumpy with several peat bogs to cross and no signs of footprints besides those of sheep. The Easains themselves were shrouded in cloud but I enjoyed the hazy views west to the Innses and beyond them to the Grey Corries, including the distinctive and solitary point of Stob Ban.

I took another break at the small cairn marking the summit of Cnap Cruinn before descending down gentle, grassy slopes into Coire Laire. The river was fairly high in places but I found a reasonable place to cross at 308756. Though I waded, the water didn’t come over my winter boots so I stayed dry.

From here it was a brutal slog up the very steep northern slopes of Stob a’ Choire Mheadhoin. The river in Coire Laire was at 1,200ft whilst above me, the summit of the Munro was at over 3,600ft! I roughly followed the line of the Allt na Craige Tarsuinn which tumbles down a series of falls lower down whilst still being choked with snow higher up. I paused often and noted that the haze was lessening with views now more distinct over the Corbetts behind me and Creag Meagaidh to the north-east.

The upper reaches looked craggy but it was fairly straightforward to pick my way through them and finally I emerged on the shoulder of Stob a’ Choire Mheadhoin. This was rocky and still largely snow covered but I found a way easily across the shallow slopes to finally join the standard bagging route from Fersit at 318738. I had seen a couple of walkers in the distance but when I finally crested the rise to the summit it was deserted and misty. The top of Mheadhoin is fairly featureless and the main attraction is the view ahead to Stob Coire Easain which has a fantastic north-east face.

I dropped down to the bealach between the two, wading through delightfully powdery snow and then started to climb the track on the far side.

Just as I started a group of walkers passed me heading back for Mheadhoin. The two walkers who I had seen on the previous hill were now just ahead of me. I spent some time admiring the eastern corrie and the cornices before climbing up to the large cairn and the magnificent summit of Stob Coire Easain.

The views from here were quite stunning even without pristine air quality. I sat down just besides the summit and drank in the views. The two chaps also paused up here taking on board food and drink and discussing the day.

After this enjoyable rest, basking in the hazy sunshine, I dropped north of the summit and soon picked up a track running down the north ridge. This proved very, very steep and snow covered for much of the descent and there was a constant tumble of stones and rocks as I made my way down. The track runs very close to the edge of the ridge with the cornice just a short distance away. I was very glad to make it down to gentler ground where, after descending through two lines of crags I hit more level terrain.

I admired the views down into Coire Laire and then picked my way on a distinct track down towards the Lairig. Now I had views onto the intimidating southern face of Sgurr Innse. My original plan had been to climb this and then go over Cruach Innse to rejoin my outward track. However, by this point I was becoming tired and as I sat down finishing off some chocolate and trying to figure out a way up through the crags I decided to abort this plan and return by the Lairig road.

It wasn’t an easy decision as the mountain looks a lot of fun, but feeling tired and still with some way to go, I didn’t feel that I could trust my decision making if I got into trouble high up on an exposed crag. The mountains will still be here when I return. So it was that with some reluctance I dropped down from the peaty bealach to where the Lairig Leacach track fords the stream at 283738. Up the other side I joined the road just north of the Bothy which sits in an impressive location below Stob Ban.

From here it was a simple case of walking the 5km out back along the road, getting excellent views up onto the Innses, waking a few sheep from their afternoon naps, and eventually arriving back at the car just on 5:30pm, 8 hours after setting off.

Fish and chips at Aberlour broke up a return journey which got me back to Aberdeen for 9:30pm.