Now with added GPS

Filed under: technology, walking | December 28, 2008 at 2:25 pm | 1 Comment

For Christmas I received a very good Garmin Etrex Vista HCx GPS device for use when out walking the Scottish hills. As well as keeping me on the right path it will also satisfy my inner geek by providing myriad stats ready for analysis after the walk.

To test it out we took advantage of crisp, cold weather on Boxing Day and headed up our local hill, Black Hambleton. As well as the GPS I also took the camera and with a couple of useful bits of software (GPSBabel and GPSPhotolinker) have got all my photos tagged correctly with accurate GPS information. I then signed up to Easy Trail where all of the above can be combined to give this overview of the walk, including pictures.

A Stroll Up Black Hambleton at EveryTrail

Map created by EveryTrail:GPS Geotagging

It’s scary how easy it is to assimilate all these different kinds of information.

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Mt Battock with the Stockets

Filed under: walking | November 16, 2008 at 11:22 pm | 0 Comments

There was excitement, adventure and bacon rolls even before we hit the hill on our trip to Glen Esk for the November 2008 walk. The coach turned up a few minutes late but our troop of 19 souls who braved an inclement, dark, cold Aberdeen morning were soon being whisked down the A90 at a good pace. The rain died away, the sun rose over a steel-grey sea and our souls lifted. Unfortunately, so did the bus’ engine temperature which caused us to dive into a lay-by shortly after we had sped past the Fettercairn turn off.

A few anxious minutes later, having turned to head back north, we stopped again, this time straddling the hard shoulder and inside lane as the engine yet again refused to go on. The driver topped up the radiator and we crawled a little further on to the services at Strathcathrow, not before we had narrowly avoided wiping out a car as the driver yet again missed the turn and tried to head down the joining slip road!

After a few minutes of discussion and technical analysis outside at the services we decided to head inside where a new plan for the day was formulated over cups of coffee and bacon rolls. We had a half hour wait for a coach to come from Forfar, during which time we decided to do a shorter loop walk up over Mount Battoch and then around a few of the smaller hills in the area. It was seen as a bit risky to send our driver off around to the Clachnaben car park even if the new bus did prove to be reliable.

The new, much smaller, yet functioning bus arrived and we piled on for the last twenty minutes or so into Glen Esk. We were deposited into the cold clear sunshine close to Millden Lodge and the bridge over the Burn of Turret.

Out into the wilds

Thanks to our hot breakfast the Stockets were soon off at a good pace heading along a clear track north towards Blackcraigs. From these farm buildings it was then a gentle climb up the landrover highway onto the broad back of Mt Een (529m). As we climbed the views back into a sleepy Glen Esk opened up, and to our west the peaks above Glen Tanar appeared.

Through the gate

After a pause for coffee we continued. From Een the track continued over the undulating slopes of Bennygray (558m) and then up towards Wester Cairn. The top of Mt Battock which had been visible for most of the walk was now close by. We followed the track up onto Wester Cairn through boggy ground whilst the following group took a more direct route.

Mt Battock

From here it was only a kilometer or so to the summit of Mt Battock where a stuff breezed forced only the brave to linger. After taking in the views of the Mounth (lochnagar and Mt Keen bathed in winter sunlight) as well as Clachnaben we sought shelter for lunch. Most people had to descend from the summit but in the sunshine behind the large cairn it was delightful and sandwiches were consumed whilst the view down Glen Esk was admired.

Clachnaben from Mt Battock

The return journey took us along the other half of the horsehoe leading down from Mt Battock. After a short section of cross-country we again picked up a well made track and headed down across the Hill of Saughs and the Hill of Turret. Somewhere on this section we came across our only sign of other walkers on the hills - the words Cairngorm Club had been scratched into the gravel.

The final mile

5 hours after setting out and with the sun sinking behind the hills south of the Esk we came down into the farmland around Millden Lodge and were reunited with the bus.

We stopped off for a warming pint or three in the Edzell hotel which was cosy and warm. Then it was back on the bus for a dark drive back to Aberdeen and the end of a satisfying day.

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Major Matt Mason USA at The Music Club

Filed under: gig, music | November 2, 2008 at 12:37 am | 1 Comment

Leaving the Saturday evening hustle of Langstane Place (gateway to Soul - it ought to be guarded by a three-headed dog) the Music Club is found by climbing a series of brightly lit yet eerily quiet stairs, following makeshift signs and holding on to shiny stainless steel handrails. Even fifteen or so minutes after doors there weren’t very many people besides the band-folk and it is this lack of footfall which means that unfortunately The Music Club is the latest music venue casualty in Aberdeen. Tonight’s gig marked the end of a short-lived time in business. It’s a real shame because they’ve done great things with the space. Both the coffee and continental beer were very good and the sound system was rich and warm; perfectly suited to the minimalism of the evening’s acts.

Despite initial concerns though, by the time the Matricarians took to the stage (or at least one half of the four piece) there was a buzz of conversation and the majority of tables and sofas had filled up with people. Alan and Susan treated us to a delightful half a dozen richly-looped folk deconstructions which took us all the way from wistful, innocent love through to, well, necrophilia. On the way there were Oxfam-sourced bird whistles, xylophones and Alan’s guitar noodlings. It was a lot of fun and set the tone nicely for the rest of the evening.

Next up was Francis MacDonald, Teenage Fanclub’s drummer, owner of Glasgow’s Shoeshine Records/Spit & Polish, manager of bands such as Camera Obscura and, it turns out, a singer-songwriter in his own right. Never taking himself too seriously Francis opened by apologising for his guitar playing (”I usually play the drums”) and then knocking out the Laurel & Hardy tune Honolulu Baby. His songs were simple, quirky affairs driven by a lovely up-tempo 60’s pop guitar style. Songs largely centered around girls and in fact it appeared that the whole thing was performed for the lassie with the nice smile sitting in the front row. He finished off with highlights from his “pop opera” called Sauchiehall And Hope.

The headline act was New York city DIY and anti-folk singer-songwriter Major Matt Mason USA who releases records in the UK on MacDonald’s Shoeshine Music label. I’d come across the name on a few different blogs over the years but had never really given his music the time it deserves. The gig was the perfect arena to really give it some attention.

Major Matt Mason USA on Flickr by dream sister

Major Matt Mason USA by dream sister

Although originally hailing from Kansas (”we thought everyone else spoke funny”) Matt is a product of New York and the vast scope that city has for producing something which flys in the face of anything approaching a trend. For me he bridges a gap between the lengthier, less radio-friendly works of Neil Young (think the wandering nature of Thrasher) and post-grunge bands like Placebo (and I’m not just talking nasally vocals). Whilst his guitar playing is minimalist it is his songwriting which shines - laced with pathos, humour and the occasional slash of darkness, they tell stories of people (well him) with a refreshing honesty.

His song-intros were borderline stand-up at times and he even recited a poem he had written on the train up from the south lands - the Major Matt guarantee that at least one part of the show will be completely unique and never repeated again.

All in all he thoroughly delighted the audience and it was sadly all too soon that he was stepping down to great applause, the lights were up and the Music Club’s all too brief life as a music venue came to a close.

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Public Lecture at the University of Aberdeen

Filed under: culture | October 20, 2008 at 11:52 pm | 0 Comments

This evening I attended the first in the University of Aberdeen’s series of Inaugural Lectures. Held in the very fine surroundings of Kings College we were treated to a talk that was fascinating in its breadth and confident in its delivery.

Professor Cairns Craig (a fine Scottish name if ever I heard one) is Director of the AHRC Centre for Irish and Scottish Studies at the University and gave his lecture on Philosophy, Physics and Fantasy in Nineteenth-Century Scotland and Ireland.

Starting off with his initial interests in the poet W.B. Yeats he showed how the escapism of the Victorian interest in Faerie was seen as a decline in Scottish intellectual thought; that the Scottish Enlightenment ended and left behind it no remarkable legacy.

He then used the lecture to argue against this postulation, showing how the advances in physics, and particular the new science of energy (culminating in James Clerk Maxwell’s work on electromagnetism), directly influenced the philosophical and literary activities that were going on at the time.

It was interesting to see how the advanced ideas of the day (such as entropy) found their way into the public imagination through their utilisation by fantasy writers such as J.M. Barrie (in Peter Pan) and Robert Louis Stevenson (in Strange Case of Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde).

It was also interesting to hear the part religion played here, in that most of the characters were religious and that they accepted what they were doing, and discovering, as something that resonated rather than conflicted with their belief. A significant disadvantage is that they failed to recognise some of the work of atheist intellectuals of the day, and in particular that of David Hume who was denied senior academic positions because of his atheism.

The lecture was delivered in such a way that the ideas were easy to follow, illustrated with quotes and passages which reinforced the message, nd that opened up my understanding of Scottish philosophy and other intellectual thoughts in the time leading up to the First World War. Given the content there are a number of avenues I will be reading into further.

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First Light for 80mm Refractor

Filed under: astronomy | October 11, 2008 at 11:01 pm | 0 Comments

Autumn is pretty much my favourite season. I think it reminds me a lot of the first term at University which was generally always the least stressful. After a disappointing summer where I failed to observe any bright Noctilucent Cloud displays it has been great the last few weeks to see the nights drawing in and the stars peeking out ever earlier. The leaves turning, scarves coming out and crisp mornings all make this pretty much my favourite season. In the sky we’ll see the return of Andromeda and soon the first appearance of Orion in the evening sky. This is the time of the year when you remember how much you love astronomy and being out there under the skies.

To celebrate all of the above I recently bit the bullet and purchased myself a portable observing set-up which will compliment the 8” Newt I already own (but which is down at my parents house due to storage issues up here in Scotland). After much research into the burgeoning 80mm doublet market I am now the proud owner of:

Vixen ED80sf (80mm F/7.5 Semi-Apo Refractor)
Vixen Portamount (Alt-Az)
Moonfish 2” Diagonal
Moonfish 2” 30mm Ultrawide Eyepiece

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It took a couple of Saturdays to take delivery of everything but finally earlier today I had everything in place and, coming back from the pub, I noticed that the stars were shining overhead in what initially appeared a reasonable, clear sky.

A big factor for me in buying this kit was being able to easily carry everything in one trip around to my observing location. With the diagonal and eyepiece finding a home in the telescope case this was achieved, although I still need to find a space for the mount’s plastic accessory tray.

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It took only a few minutes to get everything ready, the mount extended and accessory tray attached, the OTA onto the mount via the dovetail plate, finderscope onto the OTA, 2” diagonal, then the eyepiece. It is all weighty stuff and although the tube is reasonably balanced I found that the tension in the mount axis was not sufficient to hold the scope when moved away from the horizontal. Given that it was (obviously) dark I didn’t want to spend too much time playing around with Allen keys so this is something I will sort before my next session.

With sky quality degraded by high level cloud I chose some of the more obvious targets for my first light and it was the bright, nearly full Moon that attracted my attention to begin with. The 30mm eyepiece gives a huge field of view, the Moon sitting nicely in the centre with plenty of black space surrounding it. The focus was pinsharp and the action very smooth. Colours were excellent with no hint of aberration. My only problem was internal reflections from lights across the way. It was a stunningly detailed view and I spent a few minutes taking it all in.

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Next I used the wide Field of View to observe both M45 and the Double Cluster. The Pleiades fit perfectly into the field of view, their blue colour apparent against the jet black sky. The collimation looked good with symmetrical airy discs on both sides of focus. Unfortunately the sky was really deteriorating and by the time I swung up to the Double Cluster, almost directly overhead, it was a murky and faint target. Still, it fitted nicely into the FoV and this will definitely be a target to return to.

With more and more cloud moving in I packed up and headed back inside. Putting everything away only took a couple of minutes. I’m hugely pleased with my purchase and can’t wait to get more observing in as the season progresses.

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Frightened Rabbit, Moshulu, Aberdeen

Filed under: gig, music | September 20, 2008 at 5:37 pm | 0 Comments

I don’t like Moshulu as a gig venue. The floor sucks the life out of your shoes as quickly as the acoustics suck the life out of the music. Still, it is a testament to the brilliance of Frightened Rabbit that they managed to turn the place, and the somewhat placid crowd, over to their side.

Frightened Rabbit at Moshulu

Blazing through their set in just over an hour, they covered much of their latest album Midnight Organ Fight and threw in a couple of older tunes for good measure. It was a hugely entertaining and uplifting experience.

Singer Scott Hutchinson is a mesmerizing performer, channeling the passion that infuses Midnight Organ Fight, into a frenzied onstage performance. In fact I barely remember registering the rest of the band. This is by no means their fault, and certainly his brother Grant’s ferocious drumming (particularly on Fast Blood) underpinned the night, but simply shows how much Hutchinson brings to the table.

The other aspect of their recorded work which transfers particularly well to the live setting is their range of influences, all of which featured at the gig. The folkified beat of Old Old Fashioned contrasts supremely with indie-fuzz of The Modern Leper. All of it though is distinctly Scottish, unique and quite brilliant.

Midnight Organ Fight is out now on Fat Cat Records and is surely a contender for 2008 Album of the Year.

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Monadh Mor and Beinn Bhrotain

Filed under: walking | September 13, 2008 at 8:16 pm | 0 Comments

Fourteen hardy Stockets climbed aboard Gordon’s Luxury Coach at Mile End School early on Saturday morning. Silvester did an excellent job of tearing around the top of the Cairngorms but even so it was more than three hours after leaving Aberdeen that we rolled past turf-roofed houses in Glen Feshie and were deposited at the end of the road.

Unusually the Munroists had a shorter route and so we bid farewell to the Glen Dwellers, led by Steve who disappeared off in what appeared to be the wrong direction. They were actually heading further south down Glen Feshie to pick up a Glen that would eventually bring them through to Whitebridge. Apparently it was a lovely walk with spectacular landscapes, marred slightly by the onset of blisters for one unlucky trekker.

Sunlight in Glen Feshie

Meanwhile, the Munroists were heading up on a good track around the lower slopes of xxx before finally gaining the plateau by way of a steep slog up an eroded path. Initially sun had driven off the layers but by the time the plateau was reached most people were back on with midlayers and waterproofs against a wind that was driving cloud, rain-like into our faces.

Without a dedicated leader the task of navigating was shared amongst the company. Maps were consulted regularly in the mist and very often when a path ran out we were referring to our compasses. In unpleasant conditions we identified a suitable spot on the map for lunch, and after a rapid descent down a landrover track we found it by a gushing burn.

Lunch was a relatively brief affair and we were soon crossing over and heather-bashing our way up the other side, making our way for the top of Tom Dubh and Liz’s prime objective of the day. Premature celebrations occurred when I found a small mist-shrouded cairn but the group’s opinion was that given the subsequent rise in the ground beyond me I was not yet at the top. A few minutes later a much more substantial cairn was found and with a little help from multiple GPS units, our position was identified as on top of Tom Dubh. In the mist it could just as easily have been Tom Buidhe.

Coming off this seemingly innocent and insignificant top we came across the great obstacle of the day, the Allt Luineag, which came down a steep sided, almost straight gully. With the water high and fast it posed something of a puzzle and only some brave venturing forth with poles took the first person across the rocks to the other side. Three intrepid folk headed further upstream to try their luck and successfully reappeared a few minutes later.

With regrouping achieved again compasses were taken out and by reading the countours we found our way across another spot height and then on to the final slope of Monadh Mor, a steep grassy slope with occasional rocky patches. The summit was soon achieved after only a little discussion of the slope of the plateau. It was still very misty so after brief discussions we again split, three headed by Liz seeking a different way off the plateau by way of Glen Geusachan, and the remaining heading now southeast along the broad summit towards Beinn Bhrotain.

Using the crags as a handrail we navigated our way across the narrow col and then up the final bouldery slopes to the Bhrotain plateau. In thick mist we regrouped and discussed the probable location of the summit. 10s after heading off in our chosen direction we found the trig point.

Summit of Beinn Bhrotain

The potential for compass treachery and moving of trig points was discussed before photos were taken and a last intake of energy. After refreshments we continued, taking a south-easterly bearing and descending down into Coire an t-Sneachda. Eventually the burn in the coire became more of a stream and we were able to follow it as it tumbled off the hill and into the River Dee.

As we came off the hill the views opened out and we had atmospheric views deep into Glen Dee and the feet of some of the Cairngorm giants.

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After a final stop to shed layers we trooped off down the track by the river, catching up walkers from the low group shortly after passing White Bridge. The coach was found at the Linn of Dee and then we had a wee wait for the folk who had avoided the summit of Bhrotain.

Our attempt to stop at the Inver was foiled so we continued onto the POW in Ballater where a more obliging bar attendent served tea to those who wanted it and beer to the sensible folk.

A much shorter coach ride back got us to Aberdeen for 9:30pm. A long but ultimately rewarding day.

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Liathach

Filed under: walking | September 5, 2008 at 9:14 pm | 0 Comments

I don’t think it is too often that a weather dependent plan works out on the west coast of Scotland but luckily for us today it did. A forecasted shift in the wind from south west (laden with moisture) to north-east (dry and cold) occured sometime in the wee small hours. By Friday morning the skies were clear, Beinn Damh could be seen from the window (complete with summit) and the air felt fresh and full of optimisim.

Just before 9:30am we rolled up at the Beinn Eighe car park and within a couple of minutes were heading up on the good track that had brought us around from Coire Mhic Feacher a few days before. The views already were stunning, a high wind wrapping a blanket of cloud tightly around Liathach but with the sun shining down on all sides.

Liathach from the east

After an easy walk up to a point below the scree slopes of Beinn Eighe we turned aside and made our way up easy sandstone slabs to the foot of Stuc a Choire Dhuibh Bhig were we picked up a narrow path, half hidden by heather that wound its way steadily up the mountain, threading a route between the terraces of rock that make Liathach look almost impreganble from the road.

Not far below the ridgeline we reached a wide balcony with views both up Glen Torridon and away west down the Loch strewn Abhainn Coire Mhic Nobuil towards Beinn Alligin. From here it was a brief, enjoyable scramble through some fine sandstone to reach the ridge.

The ridge of Liathach

The strong wind had already blown the cloud from the eastern end of Liathach so we continued to enjoy the sunshine. Up ahead however the summit of Spidean a Choire Leith, the first Munro and still a couple of kilometres away, was shrouded in mist.

With the first bit of scrambling done it was now a fairly easy walk along the ridge, occassionally passing through boulder fields, to bring us to the eastern summit. Along the way we enjoyed fantastic views all around, to the Coulin forest south, and north towards Fisherfield.

As we climbed the final few meters we were plunged back into the cloud and upon reaching the broad summit found a tyipical Torridon mountain view.

Pausing for a bite to eat was a good move though as the fresh easterly wind started to blow the cloud through and before long we had views both north and south and back east along the ridge we had come.

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Then, in a true moment of drama, the cloud to the west was torn away and we finally got our first view of the Pinnacles which make the Liathach traverse so famous.

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I’d of course made the mistake of reading a few too many accounts of the pinnacles and so was more than a little nervous as we descended towards them. As we approached our guide advised that if we had any tripping to do we should get it out of our system in the next 100 yards. This was particularly important as the wind had picked up and though this had been good for dispersing the cloud, it was not so good for maintaining balance on narrow ridges.

With some trepidation we boldly ignored the avoiding path to the south of the pinnacles and made our way up to the first scramble. From now on the camera was more often tucked safely away in the bag but it is safe to say there were some spectacular views from these rocks which very often gave exposed views to one side but a more sheltered feel to the other.

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It was very enjoyable scrambling that brought us forty five minutes or so later off the last pinnacle. I felt that they had been exaggerated. It certainly was nothing like the Cuillin. Whilst airy there was consistently a feeling of some security. Perhaps this was simply the effect of having a good guide who had gone to the trouble of carrying a length of rope in case anyone in the group felt unhappy. It wasn’t necessary.

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As we approached Am Fasarinen the exposure reduced and now we could enjoy the views along to the second Munro summit of Mullach an Rathain. The bright waters of Upper Loch Torridon could be seen on the left and to our right the Beinn Alligin massif dominated the skyline.

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The final walk along the ridge was much less exciting after the pinnacles but by no means dull. The final pull brought us up onto the rocky summit where we could pause to take in the views that now opened up all around us.

The Pinnacles

Away to the southeast the Cuillin of Skye, jagged and enticing could be seen whilst away to the north the mountains of Fisherfield stood tall amidst the wilderness. Slioch and Loch Maree were visible and to the south we could see into Applecross. It was fabulous in the late afternoon sunshine.

Upper Loch Torridon in B&W

After twenty or so minutes on the top we ended our traverse by leaving the summit and heading down a steep rocky path that eventually brought us down alongside the Allt an Tuill Bhain.

The descent was fairly rapidly and we soon emerged on the roadside where a group of National Trust for Scotland were just heading away from a day working on path construction.

A quick walk along the road took us back into Torridon whilst our guide retrieved the minibus from the Beinn Eighe car park.

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Beinn Eighe

Filed under: walking | September 2, 2008 at 8:10 pm | 0 Comments

Beinn Eighe apparently means File Mountain, but to call it just a mountain doesn’t seem to quite do it justice. It’s a massive, sprawling massif that occupies a good proportion of the land between Loch Maree and Upper Loch Torridon. With its cap of quartzite it has a particularly distinct, almost Pyranean look about it, particularly once you breach the defenses and get inside the huge central coire.

We approached it from the south, parking at the slightly less used car park near a small stand of trees. Here a good path wound its way up the gentle slopes of the mountain and in towards Stuc Coire an Laoigh. At first the weather was overcast but muggy and although we had set off quite kitted up layers were shed as we got higher up the mountain.

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As we got higher we got closer to the cloud base and the final slog up the deeply eroded path that wound its way left of some crags took us finally up and into the mist. We reached a cairn that marked the col below Spidean Coire nan Clach and paused for a bite to eat. No surveying of the scene was done as the scene had well and truly disappeared.

After a short climb along the ridge we dumped our sacks behind the trig point (how many trig points aren’t actually at the summit of their parent hill, as in this case?) and scrambled our way up through the lovely, fiddly quartizte splinters and crags to the summit. This was my 20th Munro!

After pausing to enjoy fine views of Scottish mist, a feeling on the exposed summit which gave a strange sense of standing on almost nothing, we returned to the sacks and began our traverse of the ridge.

In fact, traversing between the two Munro summits takes you on a horseshoe around the fabulous Coire Ruadh-Staca. As we came down the trig point a combination of loss of elevation and gain in cloud height caused the views to suddenly open up. Ahead the mighty crenallations of Liathach were very close, and over to our right, away around the ridge was the second summit of Ruadh Stac Mor.

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It was a fairly easy walk along the ridge although at times it was very rocky underfoot. It was easy to get distracted by the views of the mountains that were opening up all around. Of course, having left it behind us the summit of Spidean Coire Nan Clach rapidly lost its cloud cover.

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I ascended to the summit of the minor top Coinneach Mhor which is recommended simply for the views down from the head of Triple Buttress over Loch Coire Mhic Fhearchair to the Torridon Hills beyond and then to Loch Maree.

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We paused for a second bite to eat at the small col which marks the head of the screes down into Coire Mhic Fhearchair. From here the views back across the Coire to Spidean Coire Nan Clach were superb.

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Now it was an easy walk north across the grass and boulders that led up to the summit of Ruadh Stac Mhor. The final push involved a brief clamber up some jagged quartzite although for the less adventurous a path also achieves the same destination.

From the summit, now thankfully cloud-free, we had stunning views all around, both back across the ridge to Spidean Coire Nan Clach and down into the Torridon Forest, Flowerdale, Loch Maree, Fisherfield and the jagged pinnacles of An Teallach. Given that Ruadh-Stac Mor stands slightly off the ridge we had views down into the two main coires, in particular the buttresses of Coire Mhic Fearchir.

Head of Triple Buttress

The top was relatively busy when we arrived but gradually other walkers drifted off until we too were retracing our steps to the col at the head of the scree.

At first the descent was slow and cautious, moving together down quartzite steps away from the eroded path so that any rockfall wouldn’t have time to gain too much speed. Then we had the choice to continue down the quartzite steps and then clamber down a boulder field to reach the coire floor, or else to scree sunday rapidly down. I chose the second option and the scree, particularly in the middle third of the run was very good. Larger rocks near the bottom slowed progress but we were soon heading through the marshy land to the head of the Lochan.

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It goes without saying that Coire Mhic Feachir is an incredible place. It feels like stone giants, aged faces weathered by years of exposure are gazing down at you. Watchful and silent. It is a natural amphitheater.

We wandered slowly around the lochan with views opening up in front of us. Behind us the three buttresses grew in stature. It was quite shocking though to see the tires, engine block and fuselage of the WWII bomber that crashed into Beinn Eighe shortly after the end of the war.

From the far end of the lochan we got the classic views back to Triple Buttress. We also took the opportunity to gaze out across the wild lands towards Flowerdale.

Coire Mhic Fearchair

From here it was a relatively straightforward path around the base of Sail Mhor with Liathach looming ever larger in front. We then came down through the narrow gap between the two, crossing a wide stream by good stepping stones and making it back to the road without too much trouble. The final view of Beinn Eighe was quite different to the first earlier that day - it had been an excellent traverse.

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Beinn Iutharn Mhor

Filed under: walking | August 18, 2008 at 11:37 pm | 1 Comment

Our day started with a close encounter with Morning Prayer on Radio Scotland but sadly, as we trudged along the landrover track towards the foot of Beinn Iutharn Mhor, it became increasingly clear that the rain gods had not been appeased by this.

A fairly uneventful journey, broken only by a diversion through Torphins due to a nasty accident on the A93, brought us to the start of the farm track at Baddoch shortly before 9am on Sunday morning. The clouds had been low all the way, shrouding the higher peaks as we made our way from Ballater through to Braemar and beyond.

From our start point we were initially held up by a contingent of army cadets who struggled to negotiate a kissing gate with full overnight bags. After that it was a quick march down the wide landrover track. About ten minutes after starting the rain kicked into action and a myriad of waterproofs were put on. It didn’t really stop raining for another two or so hours, during which time we had everything from light drizzle through to driving rain. It wasn’t particularly pleasant and our heads were kept down so we couldn’t enjoy the views that were opening out as we got further up the glen.

Following our stop for elevenses next to a grouse grit cache the rain eased but the terrain turned damp as we left the end of landrover track and picked our way through a series of bogs and meandering rivulets that were coming down from the wide slopes around us. Despite a few trips in the heather we arrived safely at the north shore of Loch nan Eun where lunch was taken.

Towards the summit, into the mist

From here the group split, three heading for Beinn Iutharn Beag, directly to the north, and the majority heading towards the Munro of Beinn Iutharn Mhor, not too much further along to the east.

We wound our way around the countours until the final pull up to the summit was marked by a clear path up through boulders and grass. All around us rags of cloud and mist were being blown through by a strong wind. Luckily this was to our backs as we headed up the final part of the climb. In front as I got higher the mist closed in and all I could do was keep on climbing until the eerie silhouette of the cairn appeared some distance in front of me. It was lost again as the mist thickened but keeping on that bearing I soon came to it. Large enough to have a shelter on its lee side we crouched down behind to catch our breath and admire the fine views of thick mist and cloud.

"View" from the summit...

We now turned east-ward, encountering the full force of the wind as we made our way along the broad flat ridge leading down from the summit. In an effort to eascape the wind we ventured onto the north side of the mountain but found a near vertical drop down to the valley which no-one particularly fancied. Instead we carried on down the ridge, the wind gluing eyes shut and forcing any misbalance into an ungraceful stumble. A narrow path was found at the far end of the ridge and this was followed until the shelter of the valley floor was reached.

Beinn Iutharn Mhor and the Ey

It was a huge relief to get out of the wind and even the sun was now shining through the moving clouds. Waterproofs at last were removed and the final part of the walk commenced.

We walked through the heather, glorious in its bright purple guise, along a fun track that wound its way besides the swift waters of the the Ey. In a copse of strangled pines we came across the ruins of Altanour Lodge where we paused again for our final mug of tea and a bite to eat. Two other pairs of walkers came off An Socach and headed out to Inverey in front of us.

Summer in Glen Ey

Our walk out of Glen Ey to Inverey was largely uneventful. We had a further light shower of rain, but no detour was made to the Colonel’s Bed and we reached the coach around about 5pm. After collecting Superman we headed down the road to the Inver Hotel where friendly pints were enjoyed by all and delicious looking chips were enjoyed by one.

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